16 
Richards’ Potted Roses Make Successful Rose Gardens 



CLIMBING ROSES 
Climbing roses have so many uses! Every home has room for severayY. 

RAMBLER ROSES ....-- ee ee ee See in Clvst pots, $2.25 
CRIMSON RAMBLER, crimson; DOROTHY PERKINS, pink; EXCELSA. 
deep rose 
The Ramblers are distinguished by the large clusters of small flowers, 
their soft-textured finely-wrinkled foliage and their vigorous growth, often 
to 20 feet on well-established plants. 
PRUNING RAMBLERS: Immediately after the plants have bloomed, all 
canes which have withered flowers’ should be cut out to the base of the 
plant or to the point where strong new canes start. Healthy new shoots 
are trained up to take the place of those which have been cut out. The ob- 
ject is to make a complete new plant each year. 
LARGE-FLOWERED CLIMBERS ______ except where noted, in pots, $2.25 
A comparatively modern group of roses with smaller bloom clusters but 
much larger flowers than the Ramblers. Canes are shorter, usually 5 to 10 
feet; foliage is better, less subject to mildew. 
PRUNING LARGE-FLOWERED CLIMBERS: These varieties bloom 
several years on the same wood and less pruning is required. Cut back the 
side shoots which have flowered, remove old wornout canes and train up a 
few of the strongest young canes for replacement. 
CLIMBING AMERICAN BEAUTY. Brilliant carmine flowers of especially fine 
form and rich perfume. 
JACOTTE. Glossy, holly-like foliage; flowers large, semi-double, brilliant 
apricot-orange. Not very hardy but well worth the necessary extra winter 
protection. 
NEW DAWN (plant patent 1). Unusually vigorous grower with especially 
luxuriant glossy foliage and large shell pink blooms. Sometimes repeats 
with AUTUMN AO WeES: cs Soe cease ec tte nee eae er erence ee veer $2.50 
PAUL’S SCARLET CLIMBER (illustrated at left). Seven- to ten-foot canes 
loaded with dazzling, fiery scarlet flowers of good size in clusters of five to 
fifteen, each cluster a perfect bouquet. Stunning on white lattice. 
SILVER MOON. Primrose-yellow buds open to large semi-double creamy white 

SUMMER CARE AND FEEDING OF YOUR ROSES 
Your Roses will need regular irrigation, and more impor- 
tant, regular cultivation. Soak them thoroughly about every ten 
days; hoe them three times between each irrigation. If you do 
this you will never find soil baked hard, and you'll be surprised 
how quickly you can “go over’ even a large bed. 
Overfeeding with strong chemical fertilizers has killed many 
Roses. For established Roses a handful of steamed bonemeal 
spread around each plant, not too close, and hoed in in August 
is beneficial. Late research indicates Roses do best in a mildly 
acid soil. See paragraph on soil alkalinity, page 26. Manure ap- 
plied as outlined under “Winter Protection” is the best Rose 
food of all. 
How to cut the blooms depends entirely on how you like 
them—if for low table arrangement cut short stems, if for vases 
eut long stems. We always leave at least two leaves on each 
stem so new flowering stems will start from the stub. Some- 
times one great cane will grow head and shoulders above the 
rest, carrying a large cluster of bloom. When the last bloom 
has faded on one of these giants we cut the whole thing back 
to average, making a neater plant and longer stems on the 
next crop of flowers. 
Some growers hold that flowers cut in the afternoon last 
longer than if cut in the morning. More important in keeping 
cut-flowers is “conditioning” them three or four hours in cool 
water up to their necks before arranging. In summer tempera- 
tures above 80 degrees they never last long; keep them as cool 
as possible. 
PROTECTING ROSES FROM ENEMIES 
There are two diseases which attack roses. Mildew, which 
looks like its name, is likely to appear in the summer and can 
be stopped by spraying with wettable sulphur. Blackspot, a leaf 
disease, begins as blackish or purple spots on the foliage, en- 
larging rapidly, in Severe cases causing yellowing and defolia- 
tion. 
Blackspot is incurable but its spread is effectively checked 
by a wettable sulphur spray every ten days (the same spray 
we use for mildew). Many other sprays and dusts have been 
recommended but wettable sulphur still does the job most ef- 
ficiently, with the least residue, and at lowest cost. Use one 
rounded tablespoonful per gallon of water—and be sure you use 
wettable sulphur, not drugstore “flowers of sulphur” or other 
coarsely-ground, cheap sulphur. 
Aphids or green plant lice frequently cluster thickly over 
the tips and buds! on new growth. They are destroyed by spray- 
flowers with brilliant yellow stamens. 
ing with Black-Leaf 40, two or three teaspoons per gallon of 
water. Whip upasuds with a small amount of mild soap flakes 
before adding Black-Leaf 40. Aphids seem to appear in waves. 
In severe infestations three thorough sprayings 24 hours apart 
may be necessary but this will dispose of them entirely for a 
long time. 
; Dealing with the Western Rose Curculio (‘snout beetle.” 
“puncture bug’’) isn’t so easy. Owing to their method of feed- 
ing, by puncturing flower buds and occasionally the stems be- 
low the buds, poison sprays are worth little. Careful, regular 
hand-picking of the bugs themselves and destruction of the 
punctured buds, which may contain eggs, is the only effective 
control. A thorough cleanup of “hips’” or seed pods of shrub 
roses in late winter will kill many larvae before they emerge. 
There is only one generation annually and they cause no 
{rouble after midsummer. 
WINTER PROTECTION 
The best winter protection is to hill up earth around the 
stems of your Roses to a height of 10 to 12 inches. Then strew 
the entire bed heavily with stable manure. There is no need to 
hurry this job—the latter part of November is early enough. 
The Rose garden will look better and plants will be whipped less 
by winter winds if they are cut back to a uniform height of 20 
to 24 inches. Never cut back further than this in Fall—to do so 
is to invite disaster. Be sure your soil is thoroughly wet before 
the Roses are covered. Many Roses are dried up by long per- 
iods of scant soil moisture in our Western winters. Freezing is 
in itself a drying process, making ample reserves of soil mois- 
ture essential. 
; Climbing Roses will come through about 3 winters out of 5 
if merely wrapped with several thicknesses of burlap but the 
surest way is to take the canes down from their support, bundle 
them together and cover completely with soil, always making 
sure that the base of the plant is well covered so that no cane 
is killed at that point. 
Polyanthas as a class seem consierably hardier than HTs 
and we no longer bother them (that’s just one more reason we 
love these cheerful little beauties!) Shrub roses, as their name 
implies, need no winter protection. 
In the Spring remove only the coarse half of the manure 
and) dig in what is left. Don’t be in a hurry to uncover—it’s 
better to be_a little late than too early. Most years April 15 
is about right for Fort Collins, May 1 in Wyoming. Do the 
uncovering on damp or cloudy days. 
You can buy wettable sulphur, Black-Leaf 40, 
arsenate of lead at RICHARDS’ GARDENS. 
