


SOME OF OUR DEPENDABLES ARE BACK AGAIN 
IMMENSE BOYSENBERRY 
The Boysenberry is a cross between Cuthbert Raspber- 
ry, Loganberry and Blackberry, developed by Rudolph 
Boysen, grower and superintendent of parks at Anaheim, 
California. The nurseries now have another big berry 
for release to the nation’s growers that is likely to sup- 
plant the Youngberry, as a can crop and fresh product. 
It is larger and somewhat later than the Youngberry which 
created quite a furor several years ago and above all the 
Boysenberry has a most remarkable and delicious flavor, 
“partaking of those of its three parents. In growth, the 
Boysenberry is much the same as the Youngberry and you 
can easily grow from 10 to 30 plants from each plant set. 
Many growers claim 50 to 65 plants. 
Now, Mr. Berry Grower, you who have a small garden 
will never regret setting 10 to 20 of these plants which’ 
will produce all the berries you can use—fresh, canned, 
jam-and jell—and still have plenty with which to make 
your friends and neighbors happy. We urge each and 
every one of our customers to set some of these plants. 
THORNLESS BOYSENBERRY 
We are happy to offer you this great berry which is 
without a thorn and this means much. in the handling. 
Another great advantage is it ripens a week ahead of the 
thorny Boysenberry, which alone is a material advantage, 
as it gets your berries on the market while the prices are 
higher and that often means a big difference in your 
profit. The berries themselves, are identical, both in size 
and flavor, but the canes are perfectly smooth, which 
means great economy and comfort in handling the vines 
and picking the berries. 
PLANTING AND CULTURE OF: VINE BERRIES 
The best time to set out plants is as early in spring as the ground 
is workable. Nectarberries and, Boysenberries can be planted in 
rows 8 feet apart with plants 8 feet apart in drill. Dewberries are 
spaced the same distance between rows but about 4 feet between the 
plants. With all of these berries, the vines are left to grow on the 
ground the first year, keeping all of the canes in a row growing in 
the same direction. By keeping the vines in adjoining rows trained 
so that they grow in opposite directions on the ground, the cultiva- 
tion can easily be done in the same direction, up one row and down 
the next, without danger of the cultivator running into, tangling up 
and injuring the ends of the vines. 
PLANTING PROMPTLY: Plants should be set as soon as re- 
ceived. If they appear dry when received, place in water to soak 
for a few minutes. If ground is not ready, hill them in a furrow; 
shelter from sun until ground is ready for the plants. 
FERTILIZING: If the soil is deficient in humus and plant food, 
barnyard manure can advantageously be applied before the ‘initial 
plowing and then thoroughly worked into the soil before the plants 
are set out. Do not put any fertilizer in the hole when planting, 
as that is a good way to burn them up. After the plants have be- 
come well established, it is ample time to apply fertilizer and you 
can then give them plenty. Owing to the heavy cane growth and 
abundant fruiting of these berries, they should be fertilized to pro- 
vide the plant food necessary. 
TRELLISING: The canes should be put on wires just before the 
buds begin opening in the spring. First wire should be 30 inches 
off ground and the second year you should add another wire some 
15 inches above the first. You should do this for the reason of a 
much heavier growth of vines for the second year. 
PRUNING: Each spring new canes will start growing for the 
bearing of the following year’s crop. We advise the removing of 
these canes when they are 12 inches to two feet in height. In other 
words, raising one crop at a time, first the berry crop, and then 
the cane crop for the next year’s bearing. Then, when the berry 
crop is finished and the canes that have been bearing are cut off, 
the new canes ate allowed to grow on the ground as the first 
summer, 
