Time to plant a few trees? 
A tree is the one permanent investment 
that grows in value rather than decreas- 
ing. With practically no upkeep cost, a 
$5.00 tree planted today may be worth 
anywhere from $100 to $500 ten years 
from now. No other investment the home 
owner can make will pay as big a re- 
turn as will a well-placed tree of some 
permanent species. While the actual in- 
crease in dollar value is important, its 
dividends in shade and beauty are often 
considered worth far more than the ap- 
preciation over first cost. 
Remember that trees cannot be dug 
up each year to renew the soil: try to 
incorporate all of the organic matter you 
can spare (up to one-third the total vol- 
ume of the soil) in filling in around the 
roots when you plant. Organic matter 
releases only about 2% of its nitrogen 
each year, which means that for the next 
50 years it will help feed the tree you 
plant today. 
A tool shed or chest for storing garden 
tools is a great convenience. It saves 
time and effort in lugging tools and 
other equipment in and out of basement 
or garage. A well-designed tool shed 
can even be an attractive addition archi- 
tecturally to the property. 
Low fencing for pest control 
To shut out pests like rabbits, gophers 
and pheasants, a good fence will pay in 
the permanent garden where it would 
have been too costly for a temporary 
plot. An attractive fence can be made by 
stretching two-foot high close mesh and 
planting hedge shrubs on both sides. 
The wire will turn all pests that walk, 
and flying pheasants rarely fly over this 
type of hedge if it is closely planted. If 
a wire fence must be used because of 
space limitations, plan on covering it 
with some woody vine. Do not grow 
tender vines like sweet peas on a wire 
fence because the hot sun will heat up 
the wire enough to stunt the growth of 
pea vine tendrils. 
In the permanent garden, perennial 
vegetables like rhubarb and asparagus 
will pay their way. Use one end of the 
garden for these, so they can be left in 
place year after year without interfering 
with the annual crops. 
How, when, where, why in the FLOWER GARDEN 
A—These do well when sown 
where they are to bloom 
These annuals can be started outdoors 
directly for blooming where sown, or 
can be transplanted if they come up too 
close together. A special outdoor seed 
bed can be used to start enough plants 
to fill an entire garden. Because of the 
small area that will be needed, a special 
soil, made up as recommended under 
"Starting Seedlings Indoors,” can be 
used in this bed. This method is con- 
venient when tulips and other bulbs 
occupy the beds in early spring. 
B—Do not transplant these 
These annuals do not tolerate transplant- 
ing, and should be sown thinly where 
they are to bloom. Mixing seed with 
sand before sowing will help distribute 
them evenly and thinly. Thin to proper 
spacing if they come up too thickly. 
C—Seed these early 
—or in late fall 
The hardy annuals in this group can be 
sown outdoors as soon as the soil can 
be worked in spring. Or they can be 
seeded in fall, just before the soil 
freezes for the winter and will sprout 
long before the soil can be worked in 
spring. Because these early seedlings 
are usually through blooming by mid- 
summer, be ready to replant the bed 
with other annuals for late bloom. 
D—Seed almost any time 
(but shade the seedlings) 
Perennials (plants that live over from 
year to year) can be seeded at any time 
after the danger from frost is over up to 
early summer. They are best started in 
a cold frame with some provision for 
shading the bed. If no cold frame is 
available, grow them in flats placed un- 
der the shade of trees or shrubs, but 
light sunshine should filter through to 
= 
For simple cultural data on each of the 
flowers listed here, refer to the notes 
indicated by the letter after each. 
Carnation 
Castor Bean ... 
Celosia 
Chrysant’mum. . 
Clarkia 
Ageratum 
Alyssum (a) ... 
Alyssum (h.p.) . 
Anchusa 
Antirrhinum ... 
Aquilegia 
Arctotis 
Bachelor’sButton.C 
Balloon Vine ..C 
Balsam 
Blue Lc. Flower .B 
Calendula 
Calliopsis 
Candytuft 
Delphinium 
Dianthus 
Eschscholtzia 
Everlas’g Flwr. . 
Four O'Clock . 
them: perennial seedlings won't grow 
in full shade. To shade cold frames from 
full sunlight, cover ordinary window 
screens with cheesecloth or muslin. 
After sowing, keep watering with a 
fine spray (they may need watering 
twice a day in midsummer heat) until 
seedlings are ready to transplant. If 
three pairs of leaves have formed at 
least a month before killing frost is 
expected, they can be moved into per- 
manent position the same fall: otherwise 
carry over in the cold frame until 
spring. Many perennial seeds sprout 
slowly: if you have followed directions 
don’t worry if they don’t show up with- 
in a week or two. 
E—Start these indoors 
for early bloom 
These will do well when sown directly 
in the garden and where late bloom is 
“wanted, some of the packet should be 
planted in this way. For outdoor culture, 
see “A.” However, for early bloom, 
some of the seed should be started in- 
doors, 
Gaillardia 
Gaillardia 
Morning Glory. .B 
Nasturtium 
Nemophila 
Godetia Nicotiana 
Gourds, Ornmtl..B 
Gypsophila .... Petunia 
Helianthus 
Hollyhock 
Kochia 
Larkspur 
Linum (a) 
Linum (w.p.) ... 
Lobelia 
Lupines 
Lupins 
Marigold 
Mignonette 
Moon Flower ... 
Poppy, Ic. Mxd..A 
Portulaca 
Salpiglossis .. 
Scabiosa 
Schizanthus .... 
Shasta Daisy ..D 
Snow-on-the-Mt. .B 
Statice 
Stocks 

F—These vines need 
special treatment 
This is for vines that don’t transplant 
well, but need a long season to flower. 
All need rather high heat, so a warm 
spot (temperature between 75° to 85°) 
is necessary. However, watch out that 
high heat does not dry out seedlings. . 
Fill 3” pot with seed-starting mixture 
of soil. Press two seeds into each pot 
and water well, place in heat until 
seeds sprout. May be grown in a sunny 
window, even if cooler, once seedlings 
are up. As soon as vines begin to twine, 
provide a stake for support. When dan- 
ger from late frost is over, knock 
plants out of pots, disturbing roots as 
little as possible and set where they 
are to grow. 
If early bloom is not wanted, direct 
seed outdoors, but ground must be 
warm (wait until after late irises and 
lilacs have faded). Do not grow in rich 
soil as this promotes leafy growth at 
expense of flowers. If soil is rich, add 
gravel or old weathered coal ashes. 
