Culture. They are usually grown in pots, even in the south, as more perfect foliage 
is thus possible, and when in flower one wants them in the house. We grow them in a 
lath house, lath spaced 44” apart and in garden under Avocado (evergreen) trees. They 
must have shade with only a few flecks of sunshine, but plenty of light and air. 
Clivias must never be dried off or allowed to lose their foliage. Keep them well 
watered after flowering, all summer and fall. Liquid fertilizer occasionally helps. When 
growth ceases in late fall rest them by giving them less water. But keep moist enough 
to prevent wilting of foliage. At this time they should have a cool room with temperatures 
from above 32° to not much over 50°. Pots should be 8” for a small plant up to 12” for 
larger. As they grow and increase, do not divide but shift to larger pots. Drainage must 
be perfect. Potting soil is described under “General Culture Directions.”” pH 7 is about 
right. One cannot guarantee a Clivia to flower the first year after moving tho they 
usually do. 
The foliage of our Clivias, grown outside in the ground, will not be as perfect as 
that of pot grown plants. But when potted, they replace the old foliage in a few months 
and become specimen plants. 
Clivia miniata. Wide open flowers of soft yellow orange. Hardiest, $3.00 ea. 
C. miniata hybrids. Similar to the species “miniata” in foliage, hardiness, wide open 
flowers, etc., but there is some variation in color and form of flower. Most of them are 
in light orange tones. A few are dark and a few have a white throat. Do not express 
your color preference for any Clivia hybrids as we cannot tell the color from the plant. 
Blooming size, $4.00 ea. 
C. nobilis hybrids. These have darker orange flowers. The leaves are broader and 
more blunt and rounded at apex. $7.50 ea. 
Narcissus and Daffodils 
Both belong to the genus Narcissus of the Amaryllidaceae. | 
Culture. All Daffodils except the Polyanthus Narcissus are hardy both in the mild 
climate of the south as well as in the colder northern states. In the north especially it is 
best to plant the bulbs rather deep where the frost does not reach. Six inches is about 
right. Smaller bulbs may go more shallow and be mulched. In California too and all the 
south there is an advantage in deep planting. Plant September to November. 
Sandy loam is the best soil, but any good rich garden soil will do. Use no fresh 
manure. The addition of lime to the soil is good, especially if leaf mould is used in 
sandy soils. | 
In pots. Daffodils force easily. Pot the bulbs early for earlier flowers, Sept. to Oct. 
The soil should be % sandy loam, 4% leaf mould and perfectly decayed dairy manure 
(use both or either one). Water the pots well. To start Daffodils, plunge the pots in a 
cold frame or pit outside in the shade, after the first watering, and cover pots with 6” 
of sand, surrounding the sides well. Thus they will be cool and roots will develop. The 
sand will prevent evaporation. 
As soon as they are well rooted (10 or 12 weeks will be required), they can be 
brought inside. Examine the pots first in about 6 weeks. The roots should penetrate the 
soil to the sides of the pot. By reversing and tapping edge of pot one can with care lift 
a pot up to see if roots have reached the proper stage. There is no use to try to force the 
bulbs before abundant root development is reached. Only failure results. 
The room temperature for forcing can be about 55° at night. Not much warmer 
during day. Set pots in a sunny window. Shift Daffodils to the garden when thru 
blooming as they cannot be forced two years in succession. 
Trumpet Daffodils are hardy north and south but as they do not succeed in the 
tropics, do not plant in S. Fla. The following list of superb varieties are offered in large 
round bulbs at prices lower than last year, altho we underpriced most of them then. 
Plant one or more of each and really learn about daffodils. If not stated, the price per 
doz., is 10 times the price per bulb. In the description, E., means early; M., mid season, 
and L., late blooming. 
When you compare prices, you must also compare sizes. The following bulbs are 
large, No. 1, round bulbs, the best forcing size. They give two or more flowers per bulb. 
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