Giant Flower Carnations 
Field-Grown . . . Hardy Rugged Plants 
Cultural Directions for Carnations 
Easy to Grow if These Simple Rules are Followed 
Preparation of Soil 
Though Carnations will tolerate a wide range of soil structure 
and acidity, the average home gardener will find a medium 
texture loam in a raised or banked bed as most satisfactory. 
The resaon for the raised bed is to insure good drainage at all 
times because Carnations dislike soggy condition. A liberal 
amount of bone meal and well rotted steer manure is spaded into 
the soil before plants are set out. To counteract exrteme acidity, 
which is unfavorable for healthy growth in Carnations, a light 
sprinkling of agricultural lime or wood ash would be beneficial. 
Treatment of Purchased Plants 
In order to reduce to a minimum, if not to eliminate entirely, 
any loss of plants sustaind by our customres after shipment is 
received, our Garden will ship pre-hardened established plants 
in newly processed “Vita-bands.'’ These plants are first rooted in 
propagating sand, then transplanted into individual plant bands. 
The plants are then kept for a minimum period of three weeks in 
open air, allowing them to be hardened and established suffi- 
ciently in bands to stand any type of long distance shipment. 
When plants are received, the bands are removed and set out 
with the soil around the roots intact. They should be watered 
thoroughly after planting, but no further watering is required 
until the surface shows signs of getting dry. 
Stopping and Disbudding 
Carnations like full sunlight and the young plants should be 
spaced sufficiently apart so that they will have ample air circu- 
lation between the plants after they have formed into bushes. 
They are first stopped when the plants are 3 or 4 inches high. 
The object of this is to encourage the young plant to build up a 
bushy plant which in turn will produce more flowers. The best 
method is to pull the center out; do not break it off. When the 
stem is broken off, only two or three new growths will appear 
but when pulled off, several stems will rise from this first opera- 
tion. The center of these new growths are further topped occa- 
sionally until far into July, when winter flowers are preferred. 
Then the plants are allowed to form their flower stems. When the 
buds develop sufficiently large, all side buds are removed, thus 
leaving a single bud to a stem. 
Feeding and Watering 
Very wet or very dry soil conditions are both detrimental to 
support a vigorous, healthy growth of carnations. Although in 
winter they will stand being kept fairly dry much better than on 
the wet side. 
Since the carnation is almost an ever-blooming flower, feeding 
should be made almost the year around after the final topping in 
July. Nitrogen content stimulates a rapid leaf and stem growth; 
phosphoric acid and potash build up steady, firm growth of plants 
with large flowers, good substance, and good color. For these 
reasons, complete fertilizers which are on the market today, such 
as ‘‘Gaviota,” ‘'Gro-rite,”’ ‘Vigoro,’’ etc., are recommended in 
cooler months. These fertliizers may be applied dry and watered 
into the soil. When the days become longer and hot days ap- 
proach, a mulching of cow manure will largely assist in retaining 
the moisture within the soil. The feeding roots of carnations are 
very close to the surface and should not be cultivated very near 
the plant, and weeds appearing near the plant should be pulled 
out rather than hoed out. 
Diseases and Insect Pests 
Carnations, like other cultivated plants, are susceptible to 
fungus diseases and insect pests, but fortunately they are all 
easily controllable. Fungus disease or disease caused by other 
organisms such as blight, spot, rust and wilt can be controlled and 
prevented with the use of bordeaux mixture. A soap spreader is 
used with this mixture to insure complete coverage of the foliage. 
Our worst insect pests are aphids, thrips and red spiders. The 
former two are easily controlled with either nicotine, rotonone, 
or phyrethrum sprays, but the latter is a little more difficult to 
destroy. To date, ‘’Loro,’’ with soap spreader or ‘’Hi tox,” are the 
best known sprays to destroy the red spiders after infestation. 
Overhead watering or occasional bathing of plants with strong 
pressure hose on clear warm days will help remove the spiders 
and aphids when plants are young. 
Giant Ever Blooming Carnations 
Established Plants in ’Vita-Bands” 
LIGHT, MEDIUM AND SALMON PINK 
VARIETIES 
GIANT PETER FISHER. A sport of ‘Peter Fisher.’ Identical in 
all respects with the parent plant excepting the flowers are larger 
in size. The blooms are of good substance with deeply fringed 
petals. About the most prolific of the medium pink varieties. Long 
strong stems on which calyx rarely split. Very easy grower and 
practically disease resistant. Price: 35 cents each; $3.50 per dozen. 
IDA. A light salmon sport of ‘'Eleanor.’’ The flowers are very 
large and fully centered with petals slightly fringed. A very 
attractive flower on lovely stem with firm calyx which seldom 
splits. Price: 50 cents each; $5.00 per dozen. 
PINK PATRICIAN. A medium pink sport of ‘Patrician. Has 
good calyx and flowers are very large with fringed petals. It is 
not of solid color, but instead is rather a variegated variety of 
white ground with a splash of pink showing the white ground to 
advantage here and there, especially along the edges. Price: 50 
cents each; $5.00 per dozen. 
SALMON VIRGINIA. A salmon pink sport of the noted variety, 
Virginia.” The flowers are medium large, have fringed petals, 
are borne on stiff, straight stems of medium length, and are famed 
for their keeping qualities. Also noted for its sweet spicy fragrance. 
Price: 35 cents each; $3.50 per dozen. 
maki Vee 
