until growth starts in the spring and then place wherever you 
prefer. Container-grown Lilies want plenty of water previous to and 
during flowering. 
2. In other heavy soils, addition of any of the above mentioned 
materials will improve the drainage sufficiently to insure success. 
3. In soils that drain but bake and form a hard crust at the surface, 
rake in sand and rotted organic material after planting to prevent 
crusting. The hard surface layer may not affect drainage at the 
bulb but it prevents the free passage of air through the soil. Roots and 
bulbs can be smothered by lack of air as well as by too much water. 
4. Light soils are usually benefited by addition of humus which 
increases the water-holding capacity of the soil without preventing 
drainage. It reduces the amount of water required and provides a 
more even moisture supply to the plants. 
5. If the soil is well-drained in the upper few inches, but there is a 
hard pan or impervious layer of soil near the surface, plant the bulbs 
on a Slope and also, if possible in raised beds. If the site is level, use 
raised beds as suggested in (1) above. Varieties recommended for 
shallower planting are LL. candidum, martagon, concolor etc. as 
noted under Lily descriptions. 
6. Very sandy, porous soils provide no drainage problem, but do 
benefit by addition of humus, as mentioned under No. 4 above, and 
also a surface mulch of leaf mold or other rotted organic material 
mixed with organic fertilizer to provide continuous nutrients and to 
prevent sudden drying out of stem roots by regulating temperatures 
of the soil surface. 
Although certain Lilies like full sun, the majority prefer partial 
shade and not only do their best but look their best in association 
with shrubs, in the perennial border or on the fringes of woodland. 
In addition to the shade afforded in summer, the Lilies are protected 
from frost and wind in spring and provided with a natural mulch of 
leaves in the autumn. 
The use of fresh manure or inorganic fertilizers should be avoided. 
The addition of well-decayed leaf soil, compost or other decayed or- 
ganic matter, and/or peat, may be incorporated with the soil or used 
as a mulch. Old manure is good as a top mulch but should never 
come in contact with the bulb. A handful of raw bonemeal worked 
into the soil at planting time is beneficial. 
Keep Lilies moist throughout the summer months. 
About the Flowers Figured on Page 5. 
M. J. Hawkins’ lead-pencil copy of the old French print figured on 
page 5 illustrates not only the popular flowers of the day but why 
imported bulbs are still infected with virus. The striping of the 
Tulip—so charming to the casual eye—is actually a break in color, 
the most apparent indication of virus. Unclean bulbs of one genus 
can infect bulbs of another and for centuries Tulips and Lilies have 
been grown abroad in close quarters, in old soil and with little or no 
recognition of the disease or need for its control. These foreign bulbs 
were then subjected to months of travel passing through many hands 
before finally reaching the American consumer. 
In sharp contrast the Lily bulbs offered by Barnhaven are grown 
on vast acreage in fresh Oregon soil, isolated from all other bulbs 
iar art immediately after proper curing from the fields to your 
garden. 
26 
