CULTURAL DIRECTIONS 
For the healthy growth and the lovely blooms your Dahlia 
planting should be expected to produce, just a few simple 
requirements are demanded. These are easy to understand 
and follow when we consider the manner in which the Dahlia 
plant grows. 
The root division which we plant has an eye near or on the 
part of the stalk which forms the top of the root. This eye 
contains the really important part of the entire root, and from 
it a stalk and feed roots grow to form the Dahlia plant. The 
rest of the root is merely a dinner basket to supply the neces- 
sary nourishment for starting the new plant. As soon as the 
feed roots, very fine at first, reach the point where they start 
to supply enough plant food to enable the newly-formed 
leaves above ground to begin work, the original root has per- 
formed its purpose, and may as well be disregarded. In proof 
of this, the root you plant may be cut in half or a still smaller 
portion be planted with a resultant vigorous plant, providing 
the conditions of soil and moisture, etc., are made right. 
Thus the new plant needs nothing in the way of fertilizer or 
irrigation until the new feed roots are established. And the 
more numerous and faster-growing these feed roots, the 
stronger the plant and the better the crop of roots for the 
next year. Any fertilizer should for this reason, not be placed 
in the hole in which the root is planted, but spread over the 
entire Dahlia plot, as the new roots will cover in most cases 
the entire space allotted to your Dahlias. 
Some of these new roots will thicken and begin to store up 
starch and other food elements, forming the new crop of 
storage roots. It is when these are growing and the buds on 
the plant are beginning to open that plenty of plant food and 
water are necessary. It is known that one bloom in its forma- 
tion requires many times the water and food that is needed 
for the foliage and stalk growth. 
It is clear anything which tends to interfere with the growth 
of these new feed roots will stunt the growth of the plant, so 
an over-supply of water at the start, or the presence of rotting 
vegetation or manure, anything which will cause these roots 
to rot before they reach a healthy growth, is to be avoided. 
Plenty of room is needed for root development and space be- 
tween plants should be enough for good ventilation to avoid 
mildew of the foliage. 
With an understanding of these requirements, we can plan 
the best way to plant and care for the Dahlias. 
The soil should be loose and well drained. Spading deeply 
as soon as the ground can be worked in the spring is a neces- 
sary part of preparation. On heavy clay soil some sort of 
humus should be worked in, and some sand or fine coal ashes. 
If new clay, a dressing of agricultural lime raked in the sur- 
face after spading will be of advantage. If the ground has 
been planted to a root crop the year before an application of 
bone meal and potash should be made, and this worked into 
the surface before planting. About 5 pounds of bone meal 
and 1 pound of Muriate or Sulphate of Potash to every 10 
plants. 
When the soil has warmed up nicely, and not until then, is 
the time to plant. DO NOT PLANT A DAHLIA ROOT IN 
COLD, WET GROUND, and expect anything but failure. Some 
varieties may pull through, but nothing is gained by planting 
too early. A hole about 5 inches deep in heavy soil, to as 
deep as 8 inches in light sandy soil, is dug for each root, and 
allow at least 3 feet each way between holes. This for the 
large varieties. The Pompons may be spaced closer, also the 
miniatures for mass effects. A stake should be driven close 
to the hole and the root laid therein with the eye or sprout 
facing up, and toward the stake. The root should be covered 
about two inches, and the hole gradually filled in as the plant 
grows. It may be tied to the stake with soft twine or rag to 
avoid cutting the stalk. 
For a bushy plant with numerous blooms the plant may be 
pinched out after the 3rd set of leaves forms. This will force 
the buds at the base of the plant to develop and the plant will 
spread out. For large blooms, pinch out the buds on each 
branch down to the base buds leaving only one bud to a stalk. 
This allows long stems for cutting or exhibition. As Pompons 
4 
and Miniatures are somewhat valued in inverse ratio to their 
size, none of these should be disbudded, but the young plant 
may be pinched out to make more blooms. 
There are a few insect pests which may infect your Dahlias, 
depending on your locality. Aphis or other sucking insects, or 
leaf hoppers or other chewing insects. There are a number of 
good sprays and dusts on the market, including the new DDT 
which may be used according to directions on the package. 
Your local feed store or hardware dealer will help you select 
whichever is indicated by your local conditions. 
The ground around the Dahlia plants should be kept in a 
loose condition by frequent cultivation, deep at first and then 
shallower as the plant grows and the feed roots spread out, 
and near the surface. If your summer is very hot, a mulch 
between the Dahlias of grass clippings, or. other material, 
will help keep the ground cool and avoid overheating the 
roots. During extreme heat it is advisable to pick off the buds 
and not allow blossoms to form, thus saving any possible 
dangerous wilting of the plant. 
When watering, after the buds have started to open, and not 
until then, it is better to give the ground a thorough soaking 
once a week or every 10 days, than to sprinkle the surface 
every day. The moisture should reach down about a foot to 
be of the most value. 
Dahlia blooms should be cut either early in the morning be- 
fore the sun starts to dry them out, or late in the evening. The 
best method of cutting for long keeping blooms, is to carry a 
bucket of cold water into the garden and plunge the stem of 
the Dahlia into it as soon as it is cut from the bush. A knife 
should be used instead of scissors, as the object is to not press 
the stem shut, but rather leave it so that it will absorb water 
readily for the bloom. The cut flowers should then be placed 
in the cold water container, in a cool dark place, and away 
from any drafts, for several hours, or if cut in the evening, 
over night. After that they are ready for placing in your vase 
or other containers for display, and will keep much longer 
than if any other method of preparation is used. Too much 
foliage left on the stem will greatly lessen the keeping quality 
of the bloom. 
After the first killing frost the Dahlia clumps should be dug 
and stored for the winter. In sections where there is no frost, 
or where it comes very late in the year, the plants may be cut 
down any time and after allowing a few days for the sap to go 
down into the roots, the clumps may be dug and cared for the 
same as if they had been killed by frost. It is well to dig the 
dirt away from the clump and cut down with the spade all 
around it rather deep before lifting it out. This will cut the 
feed roots which may extend out as far as two feet from the 
stalk, and which might break some of the roots from the stalk 
if not cut. Any roots which are broken at the neck will prob- 
ably not be any good the following spring. 
The clump may be allowed to stand for a while to dry out 
the dirt, which may then be shaken off gently. Or a gentle 
stream of water may be used to wash the clumps. The stalks 
should then be cut off close to the clump, and it is then ready 
to be divided or stored. 
A cool, not too dry, cellar is the best place for root storage, 
being sure it is frost proof. It does not need much below 
freezing to ruin Dahlia roots. Also, dry warm air will cause 
the roots to dry out and shrivel up, so that most of them will 
not grow in the spring. 
In dividing the clumps, all that is necessary is to have an 
eye for each root saved, and these eyes are plainly visible at 
the time of digging, if one wishes to divide them then. This 
will do away with the possibility of stem rot, which sometimes 
spoils the entire clumps. Cut surfaces may be dusted or dipped 
in powdered lime or sulphur and the roots packed in boxes 
of fine sawdust or even dry dirt. The name of the variety may 
be written on the root with an indelible pencil, moistening 
the surface so the writing will be permanent. This avoids 
the possibility of lost tags and mixed-up varieties. 
Any special problems not covered will be gladly considered 
on request, and all available information thereto will be given. 
