


PEAS, Little Marvel (Top) 
Early Thos. Laxton (Bottom) 

TOMATO, Marglobe 
(Continued from Page 15) 
RADISHES 
As a rule the first crop to mature: 
plant as early as soil can be dug. 
Feed liberally for quick growth. 
Sow a 10 foot row every ten days 
until weather turns warm. Start 
planting again with the coming of 
cool weather in fall. The fall and 
winter types are sown in mid- 
summer to mature in fall for 
storage. SPINACH 
Seed in fall (protect with straw) 
or in very early spring. Must ma 
ture before hot weather. New 
Zealand spinach will grow in hot 
weather but must be seeded be- 
fore soil gets warm. It can be 
picked all summer. Mixed with 
Swiss chard in cooking the flavor 
is like ordinary spinach. 
SQUASH 
Follow culture given for musk-~ 
melon for vine types. Grow bush 
types in rows, spaced 24” apart. 
Keep picked. Will bear all sum- 
fee SWISS CHARD 
Culture like that of beets. New 
leaves grow out as old are picked. 
Mix with New Zealand spinach if 
flavor is objectionable. 
TURNIPS 
Follow directions for radishes. 
Thinnings can be cooked for 
greens. 
16 


PEPPER, California Wonder 
RADISHES, Icicle and French Breakfast 



Geri alicia inbecncsicaadl 
SQUASH, Zucchini (Left) 
Butternut (Right) 

TOMATO, Rutgers 
Practical answers to every-day 
questions about home gardening 
When it’s time to harvest 
The big advantage the home gardener 
has over the commercial grower is that 
he can pick his vegetables one minute 
and have them in the kitchen the next. 
All vegetables are better if left on the 
plant until ready to serve. 
Sweet corn in particular loses sweet- 
ness every minute it is off the stalk. 
Pick only what vegetables you can 
use right away and not until you are 
ready to use them. 
Most vegetables, particularly summer 
Squash, sweet corn, cucumbers, car- 
rots, beets, peas and string beans, 
should be used much younger than 
usually harvested by the commercial 
grower. Learn the “feel” of an ear 
of corn that is ready to pick. The 
tip of the ear will feel full and the 
silks should be turning brown. 
Muskmelons do not get sweeter after 
picking. For full flavor leave them 
on the vine until a crack appears all 
around the point of attachment be- 
tween the stem and melon. The free 
end should feel definitely soft when 
the melon is ready. 
Best Vegetables for Storage 
Beets, Carrots, Turnips, Winter Radishes 
—Do not wash. Pack in loose moist 
sand or fine moist soil. Store in un- 
heated cellar, or in ventilated room 
away from heat. 
Cabbage—Roughly trim heads, cut off 
roots. Store in temperature of 40 to 
60°, with high humidity or cover 
heads with moist soil or sand. 
Celery, Kale, Chinese Cabbage, Endive, 
Leeks—Store in trenches outdoors or 
in boxes of soil in basement. Out- 
doors must be covered with straw to 
prevent freezing, 
Squash, Pumpkins — Harvest as they 
mature, leaving 3 or 4” of stem. Cure 
for a few days at 80 to 85°. Store in 
dry place. 
Peas, Beans—May be picked off plants 
or the whole plant pulled and placed 
in dry airy place to cure. After thor- 
oughly dried, shell, clean, sort and 
store in jars or cans in cool, 
dark place. 
Onions—Pull as soon as most of the 
tops fall over. Place in racks or spread 
out on dry wooden floors—or hang in 
dry airy place. Store in dry well- 
ventilated place at a temperature just 
above freezing. 
Parsnips, Salsify, Horseradish—Not jin- 
jured by freezing, and may be left in 
the garden, or stored in moist soil or 
sand in cool building. 
Potatoes — Should be kept in slatted 
bins for ventilation and left uncov- 
ered. Protect from strong light. Keep 
longer at 36 to 40°, but cook better if 
stored at higher temperature. 
Sweet Potatoes—Dig as they mature or 
after first killing frost. Sort them as 
dug, and place in crates. Cure for 
two weeks at 80 to 85°F. before stor- 
ing. Best storage temperature 50 to 
Done 
dry, 
— 
