Proper PLANTING and Care means 
SUCCESS in your Orchard... 
PRUNING FOR PLANTING: Most nursery fruit trees have a number of 
lateral branches radiating from the trunk between 24 and 36 inches above 
the bud union (Fig. 1). Select a point just above three or four symmetrically 
placed laterals and lop off the balance of the top with sharp hand shears. 
Then shorten in the selected laterals to two or three buds, or “eyes” (Fig. 2 
at right). Trim off all other lateral growth. The root system should be 
examined for loose ends of broken roots. Should any be present, care- 
fully remove them above the breaks. At the same time, insure the quick 
starting of new fibrous roots by making fresh cuts toward the ends of 
whole roots (Fig. 3). 


Some varieties, such as cherries, do not have lateral growth develop- 
Ment as young nursery stock. Select three or four healthy looking buds 
24 to 36 inches above the bud union and lop off the trunk above these. 
Later in the spring you will be able to select the three or four laterals 
wanted for future development and dispose of all others. 
Be sure to keep the roots of your trees moist and protected from 
drying out. This is important. 


PLANTING: Dig large, spacious holes, at least half CULTIVATION is required for preventing of moisture- 
again the size of the root system. While shoveling out, * squandering weed growth and to provide ease of 
keep the top soil in a separate pile from the subsoil penetration for the next application of water or rain- 
and smash all clods. Hold the bud union at surface fall. Heavy soils are inclined to crack upon drying 
level while pushing in the topsoil firet about the roots; out and need thorough and frequent cultivation. Do 
following with the subsoil almost to surface level not cultivate so deeply that surface fibrous roots are 
(Fig. 4). Play a slow stream of water on to the newly pongies of exposed and be careful not to “bark 
filled-in soil to settle it firmly about the roots (Fig. 5). © trunks of young trees. 
pati aaah more efficient job than tramping PR G' During qhe arene fry to keene 
new growth confined to the development of three or 
four well-spaced main branches, Trim off all unneces- 
sary growth. When the leaves have dropped in late 
fall, prune as indicated in Fig. 6, shortening in the 
main branches one-third to one-half. Exception: Cherry 
Don't overlook the benefits of peat moss when plant- 
ing young fruit trees. Its remarkable ability to expand 
on becoming saturated allows for soil aeration in 


seasons of heavy rainfall. Its ability to hold moisture trees should not be cut back; remove conflicting 
is helpful where plantings are made in sandy soils. branches only. 
Thoroughly mix a bucketful with the topsoil before ; 
filling in about the roots. The freshly dug holes make Use Fig. 7 asa guide for pruning in succeeding 
a satisfactory mixing-bowl. years of apricots, nectarines and peaches. Almond, 
apples, plums and prunes need very little pruning 
IRRIGATION: Provide a basin around the base of your citer the first year except that which is required to 
keep the tree fairly open to admit sunlight. 
fruit trees large enough to accommodate 25 or 30 gal- 
lons of water. Make regular investigations with a hoe 
through the dry season to determine the condition of 
the sub-surface soil, and when it appears dry, irrigate. 
WALNUTS AND PECANS: Walnuis and pecans will 
not make a good growth unless the tops are pruned 
when planting. Shorten the tops to 3 to 4 feet above the 


A mulch of peat moss or straw in the irrigation basin bud or graft. Select 3 to 5 of the best shoots for frame 
will prevent cracking of heavy soils and conserve work in late spring and trim off all others. Provide a 
moisture in all soils. After your young trees have be- 2”x2”x8’ stake driven two feet into the ground. 
come established you can use a mulch of straw and Whole roots should be nipped off one inch just prior - 
well-rotted cow manure. to planting and broken roots should be cut back to the 
break. Set the trees so that the bud or graft union is 
FERTILIZATION: If well-rotted cow manure is not 3 or 4 inches above ground level. 

available, use any balanced commercial fertilizer, but 
keep in mind that your trees should have the two or 
three months grace from planting and that all fertilizers 
should be applied on the surface, and not in direct 
contact with the roots. About ¥2 pound of balanced 
commercial fertilizer can be worked into the soil in 
the irrigating basin and washed to the root area by 
succeeding irrigations. Step this up to three pounds 
for a mature tree, following the root growth outward 
from the base of the tree with ever-widening circles of 
application. 

* SPECIAL PRECAUTIONS te 
1. Read the instructions above, carefully. 5. Prune all trees according to recommenda- 
2. Do not plant fruit and nut trees in poorly tions given above. 
drained soil, 6. Protect trees from sunburn by painting with 
3. Do not use fertilizer or manure in the holes Tree White. 
in which trees are planted. 7. Read information on pest control on page 
4. If your soil is heavy, mix Gypsum with the 30. 
soil in the bottom of the hole and mix Peat 8. Protect your investment—take good care of 
Moss with top-soil filled in around the roots. your trees. 
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