Build Your Own Pool 
LOCATION. The pool should be exposed to full sun 
and should not be built too close to such trees as Pepper, 
Walnut or Fig, as the leaves, having a strong acid content, 
falling into the pool will injure the fish. 
Lilies cannot be expected to bloom unless the sun 
shines into the heart of them at least part of the day. 
After deciding on location of pool, a very easy way to 
plan size and shape is to use the garden hose, tracing on 
the ground the exact plan you desire. We suggest that you 
make your pool as large as your space will permit, as 
there are so many water plants you will want room for. 
For the front yard the formal pool will best fill the re- 
quirements of good design, but for the back yard the 
informal pool works out beautifully with a rock garden. 
An informal pool is much easier and less expensive to 
build than a formal one, as it can be built without forms. 
For an informal pool, after deciding on size and shape, dig 
out soil to depth of 2 feet and level off. Shave side walls 
as near perpendicular as possible, as walls which slope are 
that much wasted space in your pool, and gather Algae 
making pool unsightly. Tamp walls and floor and rein- 
force with heavy fencing wire, covering walls and floor. 
The concrete should be poured continuously, so there 
will be no joints, and as it is poured the reinforcing should 
be pulled up to the center of concrete, thus making pool 
stronger and less apt to crack. 
In building a formal pool, by excavating carefully to the 
exact shape and size of the pool and carefully trimming 
the edges there will be no necessity for an outside form. 
Allow about 6 inches space for wall and build inside form. 
The walls should be reinforced, and after it is poured, 
allow it to harden until the next day. Remove forms and 
pour bottom of the pool. Finish as directed below. 
Cement. The proper mixture of cement is one shovel of 
cement to five of sand. Dry mix well, then add enough 
water to make a rather stiff mixture. In cold climates, 
where heavy freezing may be expected, the concrete 
stould be 6 inches thick; in mild climates 8 inches is 
ample. 
As concrete is poured, it should be well tamped to take 
out the porous places and insure yourself of a water tight 
pool. Allow cement to become thoroughly set, then apply 
a thin coat of 1 part cement and 3 parts sand which has 
been screened. When this is hardened apply a coat of pure 
WATERPROOF cement. . 
Be sure to keep moist as cement hardens, spraying with 
a very fine spray from hose, at intervals, as the slower 
cement hardens the stronger it becomes. 
After it is thoroughly set it may be filled wih water, 
filling very slowly. Allow water to stand in pool for a 
week to soak out the alkali; drain off and when dry, 
sweep thoroughly and the pool is ready for planting. 
Culture of Water Lilies 
Water lilies are among the easiest flowers to grow. 
About the only attention they need after planting is to 
watch the water level and break off dead leaves. No con- 
stant watering to think of, or worry about when planning 
a vacation. Just leave a drip in your pool and go away 
for a month, knowing that when you return you will find 
everything in perfect condition. 
SOIL AND FERTILIZER. Any good garden soil will do 
for Water Lilies. The best fertilizer is WELL ROTTED 
DAIRY. Be sure it is well rotted or it will ferment and 
rot the lily pads and muddy the pool. 
Should you be unable to obtain well rotted manure, we 
can furnish a very satisfactory fertilizer, very concen- 
trated so that 14 pound is sufficient for one lily box, or in 
spreading over entire pool 142 pound is sufficient for each 
wheelbarrow of soil. When using dairy fertilizer, place 
on bottom of pool or box to depth of 4 inches, then cover 
with 6 or 8 inches of soil accordin gto depth of pool. Cover 
with 1 inch of clean sand. 
In large pool, if desiring to plant in boxes, the boxes 
should be 2x2 feet square and 1 foot deep if possible. 
Lilies will grow with 4 inches of water over crown, but 
do much better with at least 8 inches. Do not use red- 
wood as the acid is not good for the fish. Use pine which 
will last for years in water. 
PLANTING. Hardy lilies should be planted HORI- 
ZONTALLY and with the crown well out of the soil. Trop- 
ical lilies should be planted upright and at the same 
depth as before being shipped as growing plants. Be care- 
ful that leaves of Tropicals do not become dry or they may 
not recover. See illustration for planting on page 14. 
LOTUS tubers should be planted HORIZONTALLY, 
car being taken to not break the crown off. A space 
should be bricked off for Lotus, as they crowd other plants 
out if allowed to grow freely in pool. 
In wild planting, to fill the pool for the first time, it is 
best to sprinkle the soil with a fine spray from the hose 
after lilies are set, then lay burlap sack down and place 
hose in this and fill very slowly; this does not listurb the 
planting and you will have a clear pool. 
A pool 4x6 feet will accommodate 3 or 4 lilies and sev- 
eral water plants. When receiving water plants do not 
allow them to become dry before planting; place in tub of 
water or cover with a wet sack until planted. 
Do not plant Tropic lilies in fresh water. Fill pool a few 
days before planting and allow water to become warm. 
PLANTING TIME. Hardy lilies may be planted at any 
time in mild climates. In California they begin to grow 
early in January and we can ship at any time suited to 
your locality and you should be the judge as to when you 
should have them started growing. Tropical lilies should 
not be planted until an average temperature of 70° is 
maintained. Early planting only leads to disapointment. 
A good time to plant is after June 1st in all except the 
Southern States, where they may safely be planted around 
May Ist. 
WINTER CARE. Hardy lilies may safely be wintered 
over in the pool, provided the roots do not freeze. In ex- 
treme cold climates cover with boards and give an extra 
covering of straw. Should it seem advisable to lift the 
lilies before cold weather arrives, they may be stored in a 
cool cellar, being careful that they do not dry out, as dry 
rot will be sure to attack them and they will be lost. 
SPRING CLEANING. Early in the spring, before the 
lilies begin to grow, all debris should be cleaned out of the 
pool. It is not necessary to remove the soil or drain the 
pool oftener than two years. 
All cleaning and re-planting should be done early in the 
spring or fishspawn will be destroyed. 
INSECT ENEMIES.....Water lilies are practically free 
from pests, Aphis being the most troublesome. This may 
be controlled by spraying with the hose early in the morn- 
ing, then the fish will eat them. The main thing is to 
begin spraying at the first sign of Aphis. 
MUDDY POOLS. The water in a new pool often be- 
comes discolored. This will clear up in a short time if a 
quantity of oxygenating plants are used, such as Anach- 
aris, Myriophyllum and Parrots-feather. Place a hose or 
drip in the pool which will help overcome this condition. 
Do not change the water, as that will not help. Have a 
good supply of snails in pool to help clean up Algae and 
keep the water pure. 
MOSQUITOS: There will be no trouble with mosquitos 
if you have a dozen fish for each 6 feet of pool. They very 
effectively keep out mosquito larvoe. 
