AURICULA 
The AURICULA is almost as popular as the Polyanthus. It 
is an alpine plant requiring lime, some shade and good 
drainage. It is happiest in a moraine, but a rockery with 
a north exposure is very satisfactory. We suggest sharp 
sand and rock chips around the roots and crowns of the 
plant, when grown in the border. We have found a gen- 
erous dressing of sand around—(but NOT over)—the plant, 
a helpful winter protection. It blooms from April till June 
and again in the fall. From neat rosettes of thick grey- 
green leaves, spring fleshy stems supporting large clusters 
of flowers. The colors include yellow, light brown, blue, 
henna, plum, purple, rose, pastel tones, and some brassy- 
green shades. The blossoms are particularly effective in 
small flower arrangements. Although it is a little slower 
to mature than the Acaulis or the Polyanthus, the Auricula 
is sturdy and lasting. In colder climates, Auriculas are ex- 
cellent for potting in cool greenhouses, and in warmer sec- 
tions they are good lath house subjects. Large flowered 
strain, mixed colors only. Pkt. $1.00. 

JOINS. 
THE AMERICAN PRIMROSE SOCIETY 


Aurzicula 
GENERAL PRIMULA CULTURE 
Three fundamentals for the successful growing of all prim- 
roses are: (1) Sufficient drainage: (2) Partial shade: (3) 
Plenty of water during the blooming season. The soil 
should be deeply dug and enriched with barnyard ma- 
nure, raw bone meal, or a balanced commercial fertilizer. 
Divide Acaulis and Polyanthus every two years, other- 
wise the blooms tend to become smaller. After the plants 
have finished blooming, or in early Fall while the ground 
is still warm, they should be dug, the soil washed off the 
roots, and the plant segments broken apart. Trim both 
tops and roots and replant the divisions, being careful to 
water and shade them until new growth has become estab- 
lished. After the flowering period is over and the plant 
has become dormant, clip the foliage of Acaulis, Poly- 
anthus and the Candelabras about 2/2 inches above the 
crown. 
The primroses described in this catalogue are hardy and 
need protection only in SUB-FREEZING weather, when the 
local practices used for perennials may be safely followed. 
In localities where early snow blankets the plants, they 
rarely need further protection. In dry climates, mulch, 
with peat, straw, or hardwood sawdust, or sprinkle them 
to encase them in ice. In mild, damp climates, evergreen 
boughs are the best covering, for they afford air drainage 
and lessen the danger of rot. In wet climates do not allow 
a soggy blanket of leaves to collect on the primroses. 
Primroses are unusually vigorous and healthy and the few 
garden ills worth mentioning in their connection, are more 
likely to affect plants weakened from the lack of proper 
care. The strawberry weevil, described as the ‘‘white grub 
of the May beetle’, usually attacks only older plants 
which have been left in the same location for two or more 
years. Its presence is indicated by yellow leaves, and, in 
extreme cases, by wilted foliage and blooms. In small 
gardens the primroses may be dug, the weevils washed 
off the roots, and the plant reset in a new location. As a 
preventive for the beetle, from mid-May through the Sum- 
mer, use a poison bait which may be obtained at any seed 
store. This bait will also help in solving the slug and 
snail problem. Red Spider, a well known mite, sometimes 
attacks the under side of the leaves during hot, dry 
weather. It is effectively controlled by washing off the 
tiny webs with a strong spray of water, or use of some 
of the newer sprays that are now on the market. During 
abnormally wet weather, black spots on leaves may 
occur. Apparently these spots do not injure the plant ma- 
These 
sunny 
terially but merely detract from its appearance. 
usually disappear with the advent of warm, 
weather. Controlled by any fungicide dust containing 
copper. 
GROWERS—Write for wholesale price list on your letterhead 4] 
