
General Information 
Where to Plant.—As a rule any well drained land 
suited to farm and garden crops will prove satisfac-. 
tory for the general planting of trees and shrubs in the 
Northwest. The laying out of a grove or orchard, 
where a landscape gardener is not employed, should be 
done with care and it is always well to draw a .com- 
plete diagram before planting is started. Many peo- 
ple have made the mistake of planting their outside 
groves or wind break too close to the buildings, mak- 
ing it impossible to get the best results from inside 
planting later on. If planting a wind break, be sure 
to go back far enough for orchard, garden and shrub- 
bery to be planted inside without being crowded and 
to allow for a free and plentiful circulation of air on 
the inside. Fruit trees, being expected to grow and 
produce fruit at the same time, should be planted on 
land that is fairly rich and which has been well culti- 
vated and drained. Where possible it is better to 
plant apple and plum orchards on a_north or east 
slope. A southern slope is the least desirable owing 
to the fact that the sun brings the frost out of the 
ground earlier in the spring and freezing and thawing 
of the ground at the trunk is very liable to cause dam- 
age to the roots. However, where no other place is 
available this can be overcome by a heavy mulch as 
described later on. 
How to Plant.—First be sure that the ground is well 
worked up and fertile. Unless a very few trees are to 
be set, it is much faster and also better to use a plow 
for planting. First mark out your rows the desired 
distance apart, and run the plow back and forth in the 
‘same furrow at least five or six times with a man 
riding on. the beam, throwing the dirt out each way, 
and making the furrow as deep as possible. Trees 
can then be set in their place, packing sufficient fresh 
dirt firmly around the roots to sustain the tree in an 
upright position. Then with one horse, run the plow 
back and forth on each side of the row, throwing loose 
dirt back into the trench. After this is done, pack the 
dirt firmly around each tree. It is well to run these 
furrows one at a time and follow up with the planting, 
so that the dirt will not have a chance to be dried out 
by the sun and wind and will retain the natural mois- 
ture of the ground, which is very essential to trees. 
If necessary to plant in sod the ground should be 
loosened for a distance of from two to three feet from 
the tree each way according to the size. Dig the holes 
large enough to allow the roots to be laid in without 
bending and deep enough for the roots to be covered a 
few inches deeper than they were in the nursery row. 
If the trench where trees are heeled in is any distance 
from the place they are to be planted, it is well to un- 
cover a few at a time and place them in a pail of mud. 
In that way they can be carried to the field and taken 
out one at a time without being exposed. 
When to Plant.—In Minnesota and the Dakotas the 
proper time to plant trees or shrubs is in April or 
May, according to the season. Hardy perennials do 
well when planted in the fall but they also succeed 
well when planted in the spring. Tulips, Narcissi, 
Hyacinths and the Dutch bulbs can only be planted in 
the fall, generally in September or October. 
Care of Nursery Stock.—It is safe to say that seven- 
ty-five per cent of the nursery stock that fails to grow, 
or does grow but is always stunted and weak, is due 
to improper handling after it is received by the cus- 
tomer. It cannot be impressed too strongly upon 
planters the necessity of keeping the roots from the 
sun or wind. When the stock is received, open the 
bundle in the shade out of the wind and if you are not 
ready to plant immediately, heel the roots in the 
ground, soaking them well as you do. If well heeled 
in they can be kept without damage for a reasonable 
time. However, the sooner trees are set in their per- 
manent place after being opened the better. 
Pack Dirt Firmly.—As the trees are placed in the 
hole with the roots carefully, spread out, pull in the 
earth a little at a time and pack it firmly with the 
hands until there is enough to prevent bruising the 
roots when stamping it with the foot. Fill the hole up, 
packing the earth as firmly as possible as you go. 
Finish with a little loose dirt and allow the ground to 
slope toward the tree to collect moisture. 
Pruning Is Essential.—Pruning is a very important 
matter and should be done with care and judgment. 
If too much wood is left above the ground the roots 
will not be able to supply it with moisture and the con- 
sequences will be a serious set-back or possible fail- 
ure. Use a sharp knife or pruning shears and cut 
away all bruised or broken roots. On fruit trees, the 
stems Should now be put in ‘condition for the forma- 
tion of the top by removing all the limbs to the point 
where it is desired to have the top; then cut back each 
remaining limb, leaving from four to six buds of last 
season’s growth, 
to form a top, cut the trees down to the requisite 
height, leaving the dormant buds to make the top. — 
Pruning vigorously at time of setting is generally very 
distasteful to the planter, as it injures for a time the 
appearance of the tree to an unpracticed eye. It 
should, however, be unhesitatingly performed, all the 
branches to the extent of at least one-half the length 
of the previous year’s growth being removed. Care 
should also be used to give the proper form to the 
tree. The head may be left high or low, as the taste 
of the planter may prefer, or as the nature of the tree 
in some cases may require. 
be cut down to about two-thirds their height and all 
or nearly all of the branches removed, leaving the 
naked stem to form a new head. 
them from sun scald until the branches are large 
enough to shade them. In the case of most bush fruits 
and ornamental shrubs the pruning should be even 
more severe, leaving but little above the ground. 
exe rerecna are of a different nature and should not be 
pruned. Sir 
Should Be Muleched.—Mulching is also a very impor- 
tant matter and all young trees should be well mulched 
with hay or straw as soon as planted to retain the 
moisture in the ground around the trunk and also keep 
down weeds and grass. Never use fresh manure as @ 
mulch as it is very liable to damage the tree. 
Spraying Is Necessary.—Fruit trees and bushes, like 
other forms of life, cannot do their best while infected 
by disease or infested with insects. Spraying should 
be carefully and thoroughly done and at the proper 
time. On the opposite page we show a spray calendar 
that we have carefully worked out with the aid of t 
entomologists and plant pathologists and which is 
Geomen best suited to conditions in the central north- 
west. 
To Eradicate Red Spider.—During the last few years 
Red Spider has attacked most varieties of Evergreens, 
and must be dealt with in order to save the trees, The 
Red Spider is a very small red bug that is hardly dis- 
cernible with the naked eye; if it is taken in time, it 
will not injure the tree. 
There are two methods to combat them, one& is by 
the use of common glue to the extent of five pounds to 
fifty gallons of water, saturating the tree thoroughly | 
The Spider will become’ eneased — 
and will not do any more damage. _A second applica- — 
with this solution. 
tion may be necessary but not often. In order to get 
the best results, it should be put on with a spray pump ~~ 
that has considerable pressure—200 Ib. pressure is re- 
quired if the best results are obtained, but if a person 
hasn’t & spray pump, they can swish it on with a 
broom or window washer. ‘The other is by the use of 
“Kolodust,” a powder which can be blown on with a — 
hand sprayer and kills the insects outright. 
Protection Against Mice.—Protection by banking up 
the trunks of young trees about one foot, on the ap- — 
proach of winter is a good practice. It protects the 
graft and is sufficient barrier against mice, unless 
there is a deep fall of snow. This is not a very labori- 
ous matter, for about three spadesful of soil is enough 
for each tree. When there is danger of mice working 
under the snow, trod it down quite firmly around the © 
To guard against mice and rabbits when not 
trees. 
otherwise protected, wash the stems with thin white 
wash thickened with copperas and sulphur. If this is 
washed off by rains renew the wash as often as nec- 
essary. Wie 
Varieties That Are Hardy.—As the bulk of our busi- 
ness is done in Northern States of the Mississippi Val-— 
ley, it is to our interest to propagate only such varie- 
ties of trees, shrubs and plants as are best suited to 
the soil and climatic conditions of these states, In 
this book we are listing only such varieties as lon 
experience and rigid tests have proven of value an 
the planter may feel safe in selecting any of them with 
a very few exceptions. which will be noted in the de- 
scriptions. 
See Spray Calendar on inside Back Cover 
Sa ge age ge a ag SO TE ET RT UT TOT CRIT ae Re TSE VS TRE ag Ug aN UBT UST TREE 
In the absence of any limbs suitable — 
Large shade trees should © 
It is a good idea to 
wrap the lower half of the trees with burlap to protect — 
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