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Formal Decorative | 



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DAHLIA, 


DAHLIA, 
Miniatures 
1 
Picardy 

HOW? WHEN? WHERE 
DAHLIAS 
GLADIOLUS 
Perhaps the most useful of all sum- 
mer-flowering bulbs. Excellent to fill 
in places where perennials have died, 
or where annuals have failed. When 
used in this way, need no care other 
than that given the other garden 
flowers. Do not use extra fertilizer; 
too much food promotes production 
of bulbils or offsets at the expense of 
good bloom and of a sound center 
bulb. 
Gladiolus bulbs can be planted at any 
time from earliest spring until July 
first (if sound bulbs are on hand that 
late). Before planting, treat bulbs for 
thrips (ask for information). In light 
soil, plant 5” to 6” deep. This will 
help support the flower spike which 
might otherwise fall over. In heavy 
soil, 4” deep is correct. If planted too 
shallow, more bulbils will be pro- 
duced, but not as good flowers. Space 
6” apart in rows 24” apart, though 
for smaller, older sorts, 4” may be 
enough room to allow. 





Regular spraying to control thrips 
is essential wherever this insect 
pest has been seen. If your flow- 
ers failed to develop properly last 
year, and if the leaves had greyish 
tan patches on them, this means 
you had thrips, and will have them 
again unless you treat. D.D.T. has 
proved a perfect control for this 
pest. 




Perhaps our most spectacular fall 
flower, the Dahlia should not be 
planted too early, as the flowers will 
not do well in warm weather. Do not, 
however, keep tubers later than June 
1st, since by that time they usually 
start shriveling and may be injured if 
kept later. Dahlias need plenty of 
potash and phosphorus. If you apply 
the 25 to 30 lbs. of mixed fertilizers 
recommended for general use before 
planting, then additional feeding of 
potash and phosphorus will still be 
needed to produce firm tubers that 
will keep over winter, healthier plants 
and better bloom. 
Leaf hoppers which carry disease and 
which also injure the plant by sucking 
juice from the leaves and stems are 
easily controlled by regular dusting or 
spraying with D.D.T. Mulching with 
straw, excelsior or some other airy, 
light material will help keep the soil 
moist and cool. Don’t use leaves or 
grass clippings that mat down and 
pack—they hold in too much moisture. 
FANCY LEAVED CALADIUMS 
These spectacular foliage plants are 
particularly valuable because they do 
well in shade. Start them in a mix- 
ture of half sand and half leaf mould 
at a temperature of over 70°. When 
the roots are well-developed and the 
shoot is beginning to sho v, pot up in 
rich soil. Set out in the garden when 
weather is warm and settled. Ele- 

Golden Dream 
Dream O’Beauty 

GLADIOLUS 
For better blooms from bulbs 
phant ears can be planted directly in 
soil out of doors, but the weather 
must be warm and settled, otherwise 
they will rot. 
TUBEROSE 
This warm-weather bulb should be 
planted in rich soil, with 2” of soil 
over the tip after the weather is warm 
and settled. Do not try to save the 
bulbs: these must be grown by a 
specialist if they are to bloom well. 
Buy new bulbs each year. 
CANNAS 
While cannas will tolerate cold soil, 
they usually do not start growing un- 
til hot weather comes. Plant when 
the apple blossoms appear, in rich soil. 
If planted in round beds, you will 
need 37 plants for a 10 foot bed (18 
plants on the outside, 12 in the second 
row, six for the third row and one in 
the center). A 7 foot bed will use 19 
plants, with 12 plants on the outside 
row, six for the middle row and one 
plant in the center. 
LILIES 
Even the swamp lilies will not tolerate 
wet feet; all must have perfect drain- 
age. Yet they like a moist, cool soil. 
This means that liberal quantities of 
old well-decayed compost is almost 
essential for lilies. They will not tol- 
erate lime; your soil should have a 
pH of 6.5 or below if you want to 
grow good lilies. 
King Arthur 




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