CALAPOOIA BERRY FARM and NURSERY 
SHEDD, OREGON 
In buying nursery stock it is like buying anything else, if you get good plants you will have no 
trouble making them grow if you follow our directions. We are situated in the heart of the Willamette 
Valley, the Greatest Berry Center of the Nation. 
You can easily succeed with our superior plants. 
PLANTING SUGGESTIONS 
We are interested in your success with every tree or plant we send out; we exercise the greatest 
care to place every item in the hands of our customers in the best possible condition, and in order to 
furnish some precautions and provide for complete satisfaction, we give a few hints on such points as 
are most essential. 
TIME TO PLANT—Trees and plants usually become dormant about the Ist of November, and may 
be planted throughout the fall, winter and spring months. Fall and winter planting is preferred for the 
reason that the roots become established during the winter months, and are ready to make a vigorous 
growth when warm weather begins. However, excellent results are obtained with early spring planting. 
CARE OF TREES ON ARRIVAL—Unless you are prepared to plant them immediately upon arrival, 
dig a trench large enough to accommodate the roots; cut the bottom string, and spread the roots care- 
fully, firming the soil about them. DO NOT PERMIT THE ROOTS TO DRY OUT OR FREEZE. 
PREPARING TREES FOR PLANTING—Don'’t fail to cut the top back. This is necessary in order to 
balance the top with the loss of roots which always takes place when a tree is dug from the nursery. 
Trim each root back about one-half inch or so with a sharp knife, and cut off all broken or bruised 
roots. 
PLANTING—Dig the hole larger than is necessary to admit all the roots in their natural position; 
then having the tree pruned as directed, hold it in an upright position, and shovel the soil, carefully 
putting the finest and best dirt from the surface in among the roots, bringing every root in contact with 
the soil, firming gently with the foot. The tree should be planted about the same depth it was in the 
nursery row; this may be determined by the change of color in the bark. 
Commercial and natural fertilizers are valuable when properly used. Do not let strong fertilizers 
come in direct contact with the bare roots. 
WINTER INJURY 
Weather conditions have killed and injured more fruit trees than all other causes combined. We 
consider the most dangerous season of the year to be in very early spring when we have bright, warm 
sunny days, followed by frosty nights, the warm rays of the sun starts the sap on the south side of the 
trees. These clear days of February and early March are followed by frosty nights, the frost clinging 
to the bark chills the freshly risen sap, which soon becomes sour, often bursting the bark on the south 
side of the trees and causing a gum-like substance to issue forth. This is soured sap, caused by thawing 
and freezing and may be prevented to some extent by shading the south sides of the young trees with 
a board or shake. These should be 5 inches wide, 3/2 feet high, 2 to 1 inch thick, sharpened at one end 
and driven into the ground about 6 inches from the tree, always on the south side so as to keep the 
sun rays from starting the sap prematurely. These protectors should be used for the first three years, after 
which the bark on the trees will have become thicker and will better withstand the sudden changes of 
temperature. The protectors may be removed during the summer months, or after danger of frosts is 
over. Sweet Cherry, Apricots and Peaches are the most easily affected. However, no harm will be done if 
the protectors are used on all young fruit trees. 
The Oregon Agricultural College advises a liberal coat of whitewash as a protection for orchard trees 
through the winter. This may be applied on the lerger limbs as well as the body, but in young trees 
would suggest that you also use the boards or shakes in order to keep the sun off of the south sides, for 
we are certain that the premature action of the sap, caused by the sun, is the start of the damage caused 
by the freezing that follows. By using both the whitewash and the boards, one would have double pro- 
tection. 
CERTIFICATE OF NURSERY INSPECTION 
OREGON STATE DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE—-NURSERY INSPECTION NO. 671 
This is to certify that the Calapooia Berry Farm & Nursery has complied with the provision of the Nurserymen Law, and is 
hereby licensed to conduct and carry on the business of growing or buying of Nursery Stock, all plants being examined and found 
to be apparently free from disease. 
Salem, Oregon, June 25th/47. Division of Plant Industry: Frank MclkKennon, Division Chief 
2 WE ARE INTERESTED IN YOUR SUCCESS — THEREFORE WE OFFER THE BEST 
