SHRUBS 
IF planted in beds or groups the ground should be 
spaded deeply and well worked. If shrubs are set as 
individual specimens they should be planted the same 
as trees. 
Set shrubs at the same depth as they stood in the 
nursery row, or with their crowns at about the surface 
of the ground. Water the plants well during the hot, 
dry weather and keep the ground well stirred around 
them. Most shrubs require judicious pruning at planting 
time, and subsequently. When shrubs are planted it is 
advisable to cut them back one-half with few excep- 
tions. 
Dig a trench 12 inches deep or more for setting 
hedges such as barberry and privet. 
Early flowering shrubs should be pruned directly 
after blooming. Late flowering shrubs should be pruned 
in early spring while dormant. The early blooming 
shrubs produce bloom each year on the wood growth 
made the previous year. The late blooming shrubs pro- 
duce bloom on the wood growth made the year of 
blooming. 
See Page 22 

ROSES 
Some authorities recommend fall planting but we 
advise early spring planting for roses. The plants should 
be unpacked and planted as soon as received from the 
nursery. If unable to plant them immediately upon re- 
ceiving them, they should be heeled-in (roots and part 
of stems well covered with moist loose earth). Set 
them about 18 inches apart and deep enough that the 
grafts will be covered when the soil is filled in about 
the roots which should be spread out well in the hole. 
Tamp the soil and water before all dirt is replaced. 
See page 13 for rose culture. 
Evergreens which are vigorous and well- 
established may be sheared in August with 
sharp hedge clippers in order to control growth 
and to make bushy specimens. 

PERENNIALS AND ROOTS 
Prepare the ground by deep spading twelve to 
eighteen inches, and work it into a well pulverized 
condition. 
Peonies—Should be set with the crown two to 
three inches below the surface of the ground. Plant 
two to two and one-half feet apart. Mulch heavily 
after the ground is frozen and remove mulch in the 
spring. 
Iris—Should be set with the crown two inches below 
the surface. Plant twelve inches apart. Mulch as for 
Peonies. 
Phlox, etc.—Set the crown one inch under the surface 
and spread out the roots. Firm well. Mulch in winter. 
\W/ater in summer. Plant twelve inches apart. Gaillardia, 
Delphinium and other perennials should be planted 
about like Iris and Phlox. 
23 

Showing shrubs before and after pruning. 
Note that all of the smallest branches 
are removed. 
SHADE TREES 
Dig holes large enough to accommodate all roots 
without bending or cramping. Fill the hole with good 
top dirt and firm it hard. When the hole is three-fourths 
full, allow a bucket or more of water to seep away 
around the roots, after which the hole may be entirely 
Filled. It is well to mulch the tree immediately to prevent 
drying out. Prune all limbs back 1/3 to 1/4 on an average. 
Water trees during the summer months and give them 
plenty of attention until they have become well estab- 
lished. Large sizes of shade trees can often be staked 
to advantage until their roots have obtained good 
anchorage in the soil. 
Trees which have been set several years and which 
are making little or no growth may respond to feeding 
with fertilizer. Apply as follows: Using a crowbar, 
make holes 15 inches deep and not more than 3 feet 
apart in an area circumscribed by the outer branches 
of the tree and continuing 24 rds of the distance to the 
trunk. A 10-20-10 fertilizer is recommended at the rate 
of % |b. per inch in tree trunk diameter. (Ammonium 
Sulphate can be used on mature trees at the same rate, 
but this material should be used with caution, and not 
at all on young trees.) The fertilizer is so divided that 
a small amount is placed in each hole and the soil is 
then replaced. Just before the buds begin to break in 
the spring is a good time to apply the fertilizer. 
SPRAYING 
There are four distinct types of troubles to combat, 
i.e¢.: chewing insects, sucking insects, scale insects, and 
fungous diseases. Chewing insects are controlled by 
spraying with a stomach poison, some form of arsenic 
(lead arsenate); sucking insects (live or aphids) by 
body contact poison (nicotine); scale insects by miscible 
oil (Sunoco Spray’’) or by lime sulphur; and fungous 
diseases by lime-sulphur solution or Bordeaux mixture. 
Be sure you know what you are spraying for since 
arsenate of lead will not control lice or aphids, nor 
will nicotine control apple worms and neither of these 
will have any effect on apple scab or other fungous 
diseases. Lime-sulphur is used as a dormant spray for 
scale insects and also for fungous. 
For spraying ona small scale, commercial preparations 
of arsenate of lead, bordeaux mixture, nicotine (‘Black 
Leaf 40’) can be obtained at drug stores, seed and 
garden supply houses. Follow directions on containers. 
