spikes, if your variety selection is right and your 
bulb stock was vigorous. 
Cutting: Cutting is done when the first bud is 
just beginning to open. In order not to affect the 
development of the bulb, the most effective method 
of leaving sufficient leafage to develop and mature 
the bulb and still obtain a spike of maximum stem 
length, is to insert the sharp point of a knife through 
the leaf sheath into the stem at a point about 8 
inches above the ground. If you will then twist the 
stem gently but firmly it separates at the point of 
entry of the knife blade and can be pulled through 
the sheath leaving all of the main feeding leaves 
intact. The spikes are then bunched into dozens 
and plunged as soon as possible into cool water. 
Spikes until sold should always be stored in an 
erect position to prevent tip curl. If not marketed 
immediately, the storage room should be darkened 
or else lighted with perfect light diffusion otherwise 
the florets will have a tendency to twist towards the 
light, thus making a spike with objectionable floret 
facing. Numerous methods of bunching are used. 
Commonesi is round bunching with florets facing 
outward; Mosi effective is what we have heard 
termed the California pack, where the dozen are 
arranged in line, all florets facing one direction 
with tallest spike with most open florets placed in 
center of row, then graduated toward each end. 
Two ties are made, one just below florets, held in 
line while tied, and the second ai base of stem, 
which are bunched at this point. With this pack, 
two bunches are placed, florets facing each other, 
separated by a wadded paper pillow, which keeps 
the florets from rubbing, and then the two bunches 
are tied together. It is remarkable how roughly 
these may be then handled, without damage to 
open florets or buds. We have seen them stacked, 
almost like cordwood in the cutting field where 
they are usually assembled and tied under a canvas 
sun screen. 
Thrip: You can’t produce good bloom with thrip 
working on your plants. First, plant bulbs that are 
free of thrip; simplest method of storing seems to be 
dusting with 5% DDT powder. If the bulbs are 
thoroughly coated (done in small quantities by shak- 
ing bulbs well in paper sack containing the dust, 
or in large quantities by using a revolving drum) 
ii seems that no thrip can escape a winter storage. 
We use a methyl bromide fumigation which kills 
thrip and eggs, but this requires a fumigation room 
which costs money to build. 
Second, start spraying as soon as the leaves are 
a few inches high (using DDT according to directions 
on package) and keep it up. Every ten days is not 
too often. Even though thrip is all around you, 
which it probably is, this will keep them under con- 
trol, so that you may expect perfect bloom. (Note: 
we do not suggest dusting the growing plant. In 
our experience this is not always effective—use 
spray instead.) DDT spray applied while florets 
are open, or with buds in color may damage floret 
causing ii to brown. 
Weeds: In a small plot these are not a problem 
as normal cultivation and a little pulling will keep 
them under control. In large acreage where labor 
costs are to be considered, the answer seems to be 
25 
the new plant hormone weed killer 2-4D. Our pre- 
liminary tests seem to find it a satisfactory solution 
but we have not yet used it in our main fields. It 
must be handled with care as it is sure death to a 
lot of garden plant favorites if the spray drifts on 
to them. 
Finally, join your state and a National Gladiolus 
Society. Nearly every problem you have will be 
answered by the national publications. It costs you 
a little to join them, but it will surely cost you a lot 
more if you do not join. Remember always, that we 
are always ready to help with advice if you have 
specific problems. 

ELEGANT LADY 
