round holes clear down to the bottom. You might 
use blocks of wood instead of pipes. They may be 
square or round. 
TURNING THE HEAPS 
Three weeks after the heap is completed it is 
turned so that what was on the outside of the heap 
goes into the inside. In this manner every bit of 
material has a chance to undergo the heating, fer- 
mentation, decaying action of the inside of the 
heap, where the bacteria can break it down. Five 
harm if it stands a little while after the three month 
period. In fact in some cases it may take 4 or-5 
months for complete decay, due to various factors. 
It is now humus, 
Sir Albert Howard advises that after it is com- 
pleted that it be applied to the land as soon as 
possible or placed under cover. If not used for 
awhile, it should be turned from time to time. 
BOX METHODS 
There are a dozen ways of designing boxes for 
weeks after the first turn, it is turned again. It is 
best to use a five-pronged pitch-fork to make these 
Four weeks later, or exactly three months pays. 
turns. 
after the heap was made, it is ready. 
ETHEL CAVE-COLE 

It does no the winds. 
We believe you would enjoy 
reading, and profit by the study 
of articles presented in the 
monthly magazine “Organic 
Gardening.” The subscription 
price is $3.00 per year. Two 
super new glads are Oriental 
Pearl and Spic and Span—both 
are musts in every Glad Garden. 
Send us your $3.00 remittance 
to cover a year’s subscription to 
Organic Gardening and we will 
send postpaid, without any fur- 
ther cost $3.00 value in either of 
the above or in a combination 
of the two as you may prefer— 
these figured at the prices shown 
in this catalog. Grown almost 
any way, they are exceptional. 
grown with compost they will 
be superlative. 
the making of compost. 
to his own ingenuity. 
It protects the heap from the drying efteci of 
It prevents weeds from growing. 

The gardener may resori 
A side enclosure of any kind 
BANCROFT WINSOR 
CHEMICAL DIPS FOR CONTROL OF GLADIOLUS DISEASES 
Gladland Acres use no chemical dips to control 
bulb diseases. Unless we can grow clean bulbs 
without such treatment we prefer to discard our 
stock of such varieties. We believe that the major 
efforts of the hybridists should be directed toward 
the creation of Gladiolus varieties that are more 
disease resistent. 
We feel a definite responsibility to our customers 
to furnish clean, healthy bulbs from stock that is 
vigorous and strong. We are ruthless in culling and 
as a result of growing clean bulbs in new ground 
we hope to be able to build up strains of more 
than normal disease resistance. In our warehouse 
and field inspections this year there were no signs 
of either fusarium or mosaic—the two diseases that 
as yet seem incurable and are transmitted thru 
bulblet production—except in a very few new ya- 
rieties, grown from bulbs we bought for testing. 
These, of course, were immediately destroyed while 
still in the field. 
Understand, please, that we do not claim that 
these preventative dips are not a wise precaution 
for you to continue using—it may be the insurance 
of a flower spike that might not otherwise develop. 
48 
Bui we do feel that we should eliminate any chance 
oi our sending out bulbs with latent disease held 
in temporary check by fungicides. We eliminate 
this by planting without treatment. We do believe 
in field sanitation and in control of thrip, aphis 
and any other possible insect disease carriers. We 
do use methyl-bromide fumigation for initial kill 
of possible thrip and eggs, and we use DDT dusting 
on our cured bulbs to try to eliminate any danger 
of later infection in our storage bins. 
We do not consider bulb scab a serious disease. 
When it occasionally develops we have always 
found the cause to be excess nitrogen, and in a 
change to new location, even without treatment, 
the new bulbs will be completely clean. Our mosi 
annoying bulb disease is botrytis, a fungus disease 
acting under conditions of damp and very destruct- 
ive to the bulb tissues. However it seems not to 
be carried by the bulblets and hence control is 
possible if quick drying of bulbs can be accom- 
plished and proper field sanitation is maintained. 
This simply means that no cut foliage or broken 
spikes or flower heads are left in the fields thru 
the growing season. 
