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FERTILIZERS 
Soil structure is the key to soil fertility. The response of chrysanthemums to fertilization depends upon 
a favorable soil structure. It is known that plants require nutrients, water and air for growth. Goca - 
soil structure will provide proper air and water relationships. Therefore, it behooves us to give proper 
attention to the soil before starting the crop. 
Feeding 
Chrysanthemums do much better right from the start if the soil is not too rich. Very often this crop 
will start off faster in new soil as compared with old soil that has been sterilized just because of 
the lower nutrient level in the new soil. When using new soil, apply 3 to 5 lbs. of super phosphate 
per 100 sq. ft. of area, plus a liberal application of manure before planting. Phosphorus moves slowly 
within the soil mixture. It should always be added before the crop is benched so that it may be 
mixed thoroughly into the soil. Two to three applications of a complete fertilizer, such as Electra, 
made after the plants become established and until color shows will be adequate. Electra applied at 
the rate of 2 pounds per 100 sq. ft. of bed is sufficient. Never apply fertilizers to a dry soil. Water 
lightly first, then apply the proper quantity of fertilizer, then water heavily. Remember that the plant 
is the best guide as to fertilizer requirements and that more mums are ruined by over feeding than 
by nutrient deficiencies. 
When using sterilized soil the best recommendations to follow would be to analyze your soil trom 
time to time. We have found that when the following nutrient levels are kept, good crops are the 
result, Nitrate nitrogen should be 10-25 parts per million; phosphorus 2-5 parts per million; po- 
tassium 20-40 p.p.m. and calcium near 150 p.p.m. To increase the nitrate level feed one pound of 
ammonium sulfate per 100 sq. ft. of area, and to bring up the potassium apply muriate of potash 
not to exceed | lb. per 100 sq. ft. 
In the cooler weather and shorter days of September omit the nitrogen if the plants are growing 
freely. The mum assimilates more phosphorus and potassium during the fall when temperatures de- 
cline. Therefore, it is more desirable to apply a complete fertilizer shortly after the buds are visible. 

Excess or Soluble Salts 
The foregoing pertains to plants that appear and behave normally. If plants are stunted, look yellow 
and sick, they are probably suffering from an extremely rich soil. Many greenhouse soils are ex- 
cessively rich and chrysanthemums will not thrive in such a medium. If this is the case, the remedy is 
leaching with water. Lots and lots of it. Use more water than you ever applied to a bench before, 
two or three gallons per square foot. The water that runs through the soil carries with-it the ex- 
cessive plant food and allows your plants to recover from their indigestion. Did you ever notice 
fine healthy growth on a small part of a sick-looking bed of mums, and observe that it was under a 
broken pane of glass that allowed the rain water to come through and leach the soil below? Such a 
sight is a sure indication that the soil needed leaching. In most cases this condition is the result of 
the foolish and indiscriminate use of fertilizers. Use them when needed, but use them judiciously. 
Remember fertilizers are plant food in an extremely concentrated form. 
Mulches 
A mulch of peat, rotted manure, alfalfa or red clover hay applied two to three weeks after plant-- 
ing will help maintain a uniform moisture in the soil and increase the growth. The strawy mulches 
should only be used when the nutrient level is kigh as the bacteria remove the nutrients from the 
soil to decompose the strawy mulch. 
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