Our Lawn Seed Grows; Try Sone Today 
Making a Lawn and Its Care 
; 
Preparing the Soil 
The most desirable soils for the lawn are the 
“loams”, but if the soil available for the building of 
a lawn is a tight clay, sand should be added, or if a 
sandy soil, humus is needed, which would make it as 
nearly a loam as possible. 
Even such simple tasks as spading are important 
and should be done with care. The depth of the sur- 
face soil largely determines the depth to which one 
should spade. If the top soil is six inches or less in 
thickness, work it to the depth of the surface soil. 
Never turn up the subsoil. 
To get the best results from spading, each shovelful 
of soil is turned over and placed upon the edge of 
the hole away from the spader. It is then pulverized 
with a tap of the spade. This not only breaks up the 
mass, but carries the granulated soil back into the 
hole from which it was originally taken. 
After the spaded soil has been well pulverized, grade 
the soil to slope gently from the house. The grading 
will prevent water from standing around the founda- 
tion of the house. Next, level and roll until the seed- 
bed is firm. 
Applying Plant Food 
When the seedbed has been completed, Vigoro, the 
complete balanced plant food, or Milorganite should 
be applied. The lawn is never so effectively fed as 
before the grass seed is sown. The plant food should 
be applied and spread evenly over the surface of the 
soil at the rate of. 4 pounds per hundred square feet, 
and worked into the top few inches. 
Sowing Seed 
After the plant food has been worked into the soil, 
the seed should be spread uniformly over the surface 
at the rate of 4 or 5 pounds per one thousand square 
feet of soil. The seeding should be done by going in 
both directions to get an even/distribution, both at 
the ends as well as the center of the throw. 
A covering of clean straw or coarse cheesecloth on 
the steep slopes will help to prevent washing which 
may occur before the grass becomes established. 
Feeding 
About 8 or 10 weeks after the lawn is seeded the 
young grass should again be fed either Vigoro, the 
complete balanced plant food, or Milorganite. The ap- 
plication is made at the rate of 2 pounds per hundred 
square feet of lawn. 
The plant food should be applied when the grass is 
dry and then brushed from the grass with a broom 
or the back of a rake and the lawn should immediately 
be given a thorough soaking to wash the fertilizer 
from the grass and carry it into the soil. If the plant 
food is allowed to remain on the grass and moisture 
should reach it the result would be a burning of the 
tender leaves. To prevent this, a thorough watering 
is very essential. 
Well-fed grass withstands the inroads of weeds and 
also resists injury from the attack of certain diseases, 
and by regular feeding with an application of Vigoro 
or Milorganite will reduce the amount of reseeding 
necessary. The greater development of the root sys- 
tem and the ability to store up reserves of food ma- 
terial, make well-fed grass able to withstand the 
extremes of either winter or summer weather and to 
maintain a dense turf year after year. 
Special care must be given the lawn throughout the 
hot summer months, as Kentucky Blue grass needs a 
resting period in mid-summer, and Red Top will grow 
most anywhere and has its resting period in the fall 
after the Kentucky Blue Grass has recovered. If ex- 
cellent growth and vigor have been maintained 
during the spring, the lawn can be kept in a green 
vigorous condition during the summer, by careful 
watering, feeding and clipping. ; 
At the approach of fall, lawns should again have a 
thorough application of either Vigoro or Milorganite, 
applied at the rate of 4 lbs. per hundred square feet, 
and the lawn should be thoroughly soaked, following 
the application, as stated above. 
Care of the Lawn 
Young grass should be allowed to grow three inches 
high before the first cutting, but on established lawns 
the grass should be cut quite short until the middle 
of May. Fertilize it well and try to get a complete 
ground cover, and after this has been accomplished, 
keep it cut as long as possible. Lower the wooden 
roller on your mower or better still, alter it or secure 
one that will cut three inches high. Plenty of leaf 
growth will shade the grass roots in hot weather and 
best of all, provide a laborless way of preventing 
weeds and crab grass from seeding, as weeds will not 
grow in a thick shady stand of grass and crab grass 
will not germinate even in semi-shade. 
Whenever you are applying water to an established 
lawn be liberal with the amount used, as the water 
should penetrate 4 inches to do any good, and light 
sprinklings do injury—not good; they are about the 
worst treatment you can give your lawn. 
It is best to water only once a week on clay soil, but 
it should be applied so that the water is quickly ab- 
sorbed into the soil. Sandy soils dry out more quickly, 
and lighter and more frequent waterings are necessary. 
Grade ‘‘A’’ Sunny Lawn Mixture 
This is our own mixture, containing Kentucky Blue 
Grass, Fancy Red Top, Chewings Fescue, Domestic 
Rye Grass, and 10% pure White Clover. Wonderful 
results are and have been obtained with this mixture. 
We use only the very best of seeds obtainable, of 
lasting value and hardiness, giving you a beautiful 
and permanent lawn that will last for years. 
Grade ‘‘A’”’ Shady Lawn Mixture 
Contains Chewings Fescue, Poa Trivialis, Kentucky 
Blue Grass and Red Top. This mixture is also our 
own, being mixed by ourselves especially for the shady 
spots. We use only the very best of seeds obtainable 
and as more care and attention is required we have 
used the hardier grasses, that will make a dense, thick 
growth in light soils and a very satisfactory lawn in 
shady places or where sun is available only a part 
of the time. 


Inasmuch as we mix our own grass mixtures we 
have the individual grasses for those who want 
straight grasses in one spot or another. 
n fae t 
Kentucky Blue Grass, June Grass ¢7o<00" ton pemmane 
nency. For lawns or pasture, it has no superior. Does 
well in any soil and stands the summer heat remark- 
ably well. As it takes some time to become established, 
it is usually sown in mixtures. 
R dT A very hardy perennial grass, succeeding 
e OP best on moist land. Valuable for lawn or 
pasture, and will produce large crops of good hay. 
° An annual grass, coarser than blue 
Domestic Rye grass, being used extensively on banks 
and terraces. 
° (Dutch). A small, low growing variety. 
White Clover It is largely used in lawns and partanen: 
It makes a small, close, compact growth covering the 
ground like a carpet. Its blossoms are round, white 
and sweet scented, with leaves of bright green color. 
se r (Rough Stalked Meadow Grass). Very 
Poa Trivialis closely related to Kentucky Blue Grass. 
It is mostly used in shady places but will thrive in 
any soil. 
Resists extreme 
Creeping or Red Fescue thrives on _ inferior 
gravelly banks and exposed hills. 
One of the most valuable lawn grasses. 
Bent Grass Exceptionally good for golf courses, 
greens, etc., because of its short growth and deep 
green, fine-leaved foliage. Requires very rich soil 
and plenty of moisture. 
Mail Orders are Solicited and Prices Will be 
Quoted on Request. 
drought, 
soil, 
