CULTIVATION IN POTS, TUBS OR BOXES |’. 
Where the plants are grown in containers, it is highly important to provide 
plenty of drainage in the bottom of the container. Rocks, broken crocks, or pea 
eravel should be placed in the bottom of the container to one-fourth to one-third of 
the depth of the pot or tub. The same Soil mixture as designated for the beds out- 
side can be used for the containers. If, after filling the pot or tub with water, it 
flows through immediately and does not stay on the surface, that is an indication 
that so far as drainage is concerned the compost is about correct. If, on the other 
hand, after watering, the water remains on top of the soil, it is a sign that there is 
not enough drainage or that the compost is too heavy. 
Established plants in containers can be given manure during the Spring, Sum- 
mer and Fall every two weeks, a little at a time. Little and often is always a good 
rule with respect to fertilizing. Never give a double amount of fertilizer on the 
theory that the plants have not been getting enough. So far as this matter of fer- 
tilizing Cymbidium Orchids is concerned, there are many good growers who do not 
fertilize at all. On the other hand, there are plenty of good growers who do. The 
same divergence of opinion holds good with respect to the soil in which they should 
be grown. Nearly every grower has his own ideas on the subject. 
According to our experience and observations, when Cymbidiums do not suc- 
ceed in containers, it is frequently because they are put into too large a container. 
Consequently, when they are watered, the roots are not able to assimilate all the 
moisture and they rot. Another reason for the plants not growing or blooming 
well either in the ground or in containers is because they are planted in situations 
where they do not receive enough light. They will not succeed or flower where the 
shade is too heavy. 
HARDINESS OF CYMBIDIUMS TO COLD 
These Orchids are considerably more resistant to cold than many plants which 
fill our gardens. They will endure several degrees of frost without damage when 
the tops of Geraniums, Heliotrope, Nasturtiums, etc., show the effects of cold. 
The question is often asked as to the right time and proper manner for divid- 
ing Cymbidium plants. We and a good many other growers, I think, do some divid- 
ing every month in the year, though we have found dividing in July or August has 
brought the most satisfactory results. Some growers like to divide the plants as 
soon as they have finished flowering. The commercial grower has to do a good deal 
of dividing, particularly varieties of which the stock is scarce. When the plants are 
divided and replanted in the ground in moist soil, they can receive one good water- 
ing at the time and no further watering for three or four weeks. If divided and 
planted in containers, it is well to wait three or four days before watering at all, but 
in both instances the foliage should be well sprinkled overhead every day—in hot 
weather two or three times a day is better still. The non-commercial or amateur 
grower who has these plants for their beauty and flowers will have better results 
by dividing or disturbing as little as possible. Continued dividing and replanting 
often results in loss of flowers for at least one season. A clump of these Orchids 
undisturbed will increase in size and flower production every year. Nothing is finer 
or more deeply satisfying than a large well-grown plant of Cymbidium, with a pro- 
fusion of flower. 
By having several varieties, Cymbidiums can be had in flower in your garden 
from December until the end of July, or even the beginning of August. The early 
blooming varieties such as Tracyanum and its Hybrids usually come into flower in 
December, and C. Lowianum being one of the latest bloomers af them all is some- 
times carrying flower until the middle of August. These beautiful Orchids are 
easily grown. They increase in size and beauty every year, it not being uncommon 
for an old plant to carry as many as fifteen to twenty flcwer spikes, the flowers 
themselves on the plants lasting from six to twelve weeks and lasting also for sev- 
eral weeks when cut or brought into the house, so it is no wonder that the demand 
for them is increasing day by day, so much so that up to now the demand has been 
running ahead of the supply, particularly for the newer and rarer varieties. 
