will help your Holly. Do not use maple leaves ; 
they rot quickly and tend to sweeten the soil. 
Baled peatmoss is good to hold the moisture, but 
seldom contains the food value of the leafmold 
from your own oak woods. 
3. What Is the Best Time of 
Year to Move Holly? 
If Holly has the right root system it can be 
safely moved anytime when the ground is not 
frozen too hard. I sell and move more Holly in 
November and December than any other time of 
the year, due to the Christmas demand. Per- 
haps the months of April and October are best. 
4. Shall I Buy A Large Or 
A Small Holly? 
It seems to me that almost everyone asks this 
question and I find it a little hard to answer. Of 
course, if one wishes to spend only a little money 
the question answers itself, as large Hollies cost 
a lot. 
Many people successfully solve it by buying two 
large Holly trees, a male and a female, as large 
as they can afford, and then finish the planting 
with smaller trees. 
If one lives rather far north I think it best to 
buy large trees. Old established trees that have 
seen many bad seasons are hardened and are much 
more likely to live than little plants only a few 
years old. 
Dig an old established, heavy berry Holly with 
the proper root ball and plant right and you can 
enjoy Holly at its very best in many places where 
no one has ever seen Holly. 
5. Does Holly Prefer Sun 
Or Shade? 
I think Holly really likes some shade, but has 
denser foliage and more berries when planted in 
full sun. Do not spend much thought on sun or 
shade for your Holly; plant where you can see it 
from your porch or window. Put it where you can 
enjoy it in winter. 
With heavy pruning Holly makes an excellent, 
all purpose, red-berried evergreen shrub or small 
tree. You may group it by the side of your house, 
mass it in front of your porch or make a Holly 
hedge. 
