GRAPES— 
PERPETUAL 
PRODUCERS 
OF 
NATURE'S 
FINEST 
FRUITS 
FOR 
DESSERT 
JELLY 
JAM 
AND 
JUICE 
PURPOSES 
Daniels 
QUALITY GRAPES 
Fresh, ripe, juicy grapes; vine 
ripened and melting in the mouth; 
beautifully colored twangy jelly; 
pure grape juices with the zip and 
zest that only grape juices may have; 
this may all be yours if you will 
but plant a few grape vines. 
THE HARDY GRAPES 
This group of hardy fruits requires 
no winter protection and can be 
grown on a trellis, arbor or building 
with the same degree of safety as 
can the wild grapes. 
BETA—About half way between the 
Concord and the wild grape in both 
size and quality and is a very heavy 
producer. A great favorite for jellies 
and wines. 
ALPHA—Similar to Beta in hardi- 
ness, appearance, size and manner 
of growth but is generally consid- 
ered to surpass it in quality. We 
recommend it as preferable to Beta 
for general plantings. 
DEPENDABLE NURSERY STOCK 

CONCORD 
PRICES ON GRAPES 
ALPHA 2 yr.....$0.50 $2.25 $4.00 
BETA 2yr.... .50 2.25 4.00 
CONCORD | 2)v..... 50 2.25 4.00 
DELAWARE 2 )yv..... .75 3.25 6.00 
NIAGARA  _2)v..... 75 3.25 6.00 

THE DESSERT GRAPES 
For crop insurance these varieties 
should be given some winter protec- 
tion. They should be laid down and 
covered with soil. 
CONCORD—The most popular and 
widely grown of the blue table 
grapes. It is the standard of com- 
parison for all other varieties. 
DELAWARE—The finest Red grape. 
Although small in size it is unequal- 
led in sweetness and spiciness. 
NIAGARA—America’s leading green 
grape. Very large and highly pro- 
ductive. Probably the finest of all 
the green or white grapes. 

DANNY SAYS: 

profits?” 
“When it comes to bringing home the $$$$$ you can’t beat 
HARALSON. Dr. W. G. Brierly reports that a Test Block of 
Haralson, planted in the filler system at the Minnesota Fruit 
Breeding Farm, produced 1212.7 bushels of Haralson from an 
actual measured acre in their llth year of age. Where or how 
can you beat that for production and huge, mortgage lifting 

27 
GRAPE CULTURE 
Planting—Spring is the best season for 
grape planting, although if set out in the 
fall and covered as in the brambles, good 
results may be obtained. A strong two 
year plant is preferable to a younger or 
older one. Set the plant an inch or two 
deeper than it grew in the nursery row. 
In those grapes which are to be covered, 
it is wise to set the plant at an angle when 
planting. This makes it somewhat easier 
to bend the trunk to the ground for cover- 
ing. No matter how long the top is it 
should be cut back to two or three buds or 
eyes. The usual planting distance is from 
8 to 10 feet apart in rows which are spaced 
at 8 feet. 
Culture—The general culture of grapes 
is the same as for raspberries, including 
time of stopping cultivation and the use of 
cover crops. 
Pruning—The pruning of a grape, per- 
haps the most important operation in its 
culture, is based upon the plant’s growth 
and fruiting habit—a habit distinctly dif- 
ferent from any other fruit. The fruit is 
all borne on shoots of the current season’s 
growth. No matter how long this shoot 
grows, it will usually produce only one, 
two or three clusters of fruit and these 
clusters will be found near the base of the 
shoot. These shoots originate from lateral 
(side) buds on one year old canes (last 
year’s shoots). 
As a vigorous grape vine annually pro- 
duces from eight to ten times as much 
wood as should be left for the following 
season’s fruit production, all surplus wood 
should be pruned off during the dormant 
period. If this is not done there will be a 
tremendous number of weak, inferior 
shoots, resulting in a smaller crop and 
poorer fruit than that produced on a well 
pruned vine. 
The wood to be discarded should be re- 
moved in accordance with the regular 
training system that is to be followed. 
Two systems of grape pruning are followed 
in the Northwest: One for the hardy 
grapes, such as the Beta and the Alpha, 
and one for those which ordinarily require 
winter care—as the Concord, Niagara and 
Delaware. 
For the former, the 6- or 8-arm Kniffen 
system is most satisfactory. This system 
comprises a central upright trunk with 
three or four horizontal arms on each side 
of it. At each annual pruning there should 
be left on each of these arms approxi- 
mately 3 to 34 ft. of cane (strong wood of 
the past season’s growth). 
The tender grapes are usually trained 
to a horizontal arm spur system with the 
trunk running parallel to the ground and 
tied to the lower trellis wire in such a 
manner that it may be lowered to the 
ground for winter covering. From this arm 
a series of short spurs (bearing one year 
wood and buds for next year’s shoots) is 
left at each pruning. 

