Some Pest Control 
Suggestions 
PEST CONTROL MATERIALS 
No. a of Lead—for Biting In- 
sects. 
No. 2—Nicotine Sulphate—for Sucking In- 
sects. 
No. 3—Lime Sulphur—for Fungus Diseases. 
No. 4—Wettable Sulphur—for Fungus Dis- 
eases. 
No. 5—Bordeaux Mixture—for Fungus Dis- 
eases. 
No. 6—Lime Sulphur (Dormant)—for Scale 
Insects. ° 
No. 7—Sulphur Dust—for Red Spider and 
Fungus Diseases. 
Use only in strengths as directed 
by manufacturer. 
NOTE: Most of the materials suggested 
above are deadly poisonous and great care 
should attend their handling and storage. 
DDT-, Fermate, and many other new in- 
secticides and fungicides are coming into 
popular use. Most of them are so new and 
untried in many phases of plant pest con- 
trol that we feel it unwise to make any 
definite recommendations at this time re- 
garding their use. We suggest following 
current recommendations of State Experi- 
ment Stations and of manufacturers of the 
various products. 
CONTROLS FOR SOME COMMON PESTS 
Mice—In late fall mound dirt up around 
roses, fruit trees, Bolleana Poplars and 
other potential “victims,” or wrap with 
fine wire screen. Poisoned grain in suit- 
able weather-proof and bird-proof “sta- 
tions” is very effective and largely used 
by extensive orchardists. 
Rabbits— Shrubs, trees and evergreens 
may be protected from rabbits by wrap- 
Ping with paper, burlap or wire screen. 
Shooting, trapping and snaring are helpful 
in eliminating rabbits, but we have obtain- 
ed our surest and cheapest control by gas- 
sing them in their burrows with Cyanogas. 
Havahart traps are dependably effective. 
_Cutworms—Use poison bran mash con- 
sisting of bran, 1 quart; Paris Green, 1 
teaspoonful; molasses, } cup; and enough 
water to moisten. A small amount of this 
mixture should be placed near each plant, 
or it may be broadcast around the plants. 
Apply late in the evening after sundown. 
Grubworms & Night Crawlers—Sprinkle 
solution of 2 oz. Mercuric Chloride to 50 
gallons of water on 1000 square feet of 
space—or scatter 5 lbs. of Arsenate of Lead 
mixed in 25 lbs. of dry carrier (as sand). 
Water well. 
Ants—Squirt Carbon Bisulphide into the 
holes with an oil can. Highly explosive. 
Keep away from fire. Use plenty! 
RED SPIDER ON EVERGREENS 
AND PERENNIALS 
The Red Spider is a tiny little fellow so 
small that it is difficult to see with the 
naked eye. If there is reason to suspect 
their presence hold a sheet of white paper 
under the foliage and tap it so as to shake 
the little pest off onto the paper. Then 
with a sharp eye, or a magnifying glass, 
they may be seen moving very slowly on 
the paper. They are not much larger than 
the dot made by a finely pointed pencil. 
In severe attacks they are present in count- 
less thousands and, although a single one 
or two cannot do any damage, in these 
large numbers they produce very great 
injury. Loss of color, with the foliage 
taking on a dull slightly brownish green 
appearance, and loss of vigor are usually 
indications that they are working, and the 
white paper test should be made. The best 
control is to use sulphur dust (see material 
No. 7 above) in the hottest part of warm 
quiet days. Every part of the foliage 
should be reached with the sulphur par- 
ticles if the kill is to be effective. 
DEPENDABLE NURSERY STOCK 29 

DANNY SAYS: 
They’re easy to get if you just know how. Should you need 
additional help in solving your insect and disease problems 
just write to the boss about it. Besides keep his nursery 
stock free from all forms of pests, he’s holding them down 
on over 30 acres of fruits and vegetables every year. 
DANIELS SCIENTIFIC 
WEED CONTROL 
THROUGH THE APPLICATION OF 
HORMONES AND CHEMICALS 
Dandelions, Plantin, Chick Weed and 
some other heretofore almost “hopeless’’ 
lawn pests can now be quickly eliminated 
at moderate costs by skilled Daniels appli- 
cators using new hormone compounds. 
Poison Ivy—that arch enemy of out- 
door fun on so many properties, can also 
be destroyed quickly and with certainty 
in the same manner. 
It will be a pleasure to discuss our Weed 
Eradication Services with you at your 
convenience. 
HOW TO PRUNE EVERGREENS 
All evergreens may be pruned and all 
may be improved by it BUT the right wood 
must be cut and the cutting must be done 
at the right time. 
Evergreens fall into three groups, based 
on the time and method of cutting, as fol- 
lows: 
Group I—Junipers, Cedars and Arborvitae 
May be cut at any time. Preferred time 
April to mid-August. Trim anywhere, pre- 
ferably in younger wood. Use shears or 
hedge shears on compact ‘‘definitely form- 
ed” specimens and knife or hand shears on 
others. 
Group II—The Pines 
Pines (except in occasional cases where 
older wood must be taken out) are pruned 
only in late spring when the new shoots 
(or ‘‘candles’’) have made most of their 
growth, but before the needle ‘“‘buds”’ along 
the sides of the new shoot have started to 
elongate. At this time the ‘‘candles’’ may 
be cut off at any desired length and new 
buds for the following season’s growth will 
be formed at the cut end. Mughos may be 
kept symmetrically ‘‘in bounds’’ with this 
annual pruning. 
Group III—Spruce, Fir, Yew, Hemlock 
Preferred pruning consists of heading 
back one year shoots—cutting to one of 
the lateral buds (along side of new shoot). 
If older wood must be removed, cut back 
to another shoot or branch. Best time is 
late in dormant period, as in March or 
April. 
No paint is needed on ordinary ever- 
green pruning wounds. 
If “leaders” are broken or fail to de- 
velop, bend the nearest shoot into the 
position the leader should occupy and tie 
in place to a bamboo or similar light stick. 
After a month or two the brace may be 
removed. 


TEN SIMPLE RULES FOR 
LANDSCAPE DESIGN 
1. Keep the lawn open (except for trees), 
and group other materials in informal 
arrangement along the borders of the lawn 
areas. 
2. Avoid planting in straight lines, ex- 
cept hedges, boulevard trees, and formal 
plantings. 
3. Plant according to height, i. e., taller 
plants in rear, lower ones in front. 
4. Choose an assortment of plant mate- 
rial that will provide interest at all times, 
with flowering shrubs of different seasons, 
colorful touches of bright foliage, varying 
forms and heights, and berries or colored 
bark for winter effect. 
5. Be sure to use enough evergreens to 
provide year round interest. It is desirable 
to see some evergreen from every window 
during the winter. 
6. Have trees frame the view of the 
house rather than screening or hiding it. 
7. The foundation planting should be 
simple, should emphasize interesting archi- 
tectural features of the house, and should 
be ample to “‘tie’” the house to the ground. 
Use of flowers in the foundation planting 
or in the front lawn area is not desirable. 
8. Plant to frame deSirable views or 
vistas. 
9. Plant to screen out undesirable ob- 
jects or views. 
10. Avoid flower beds, iron statuary, or 
other objects scattered around in the open 
lawn areas. 
We Believe That 
Because of Our 
—35 years of experience 
—Corps of trained gardeners 
—Thousands of satisfied customers 
—Large stocks to select from 
—Fertile Minnetonka soils 
—Low growing costs 
—True Customer consciousness 
WE OFFER YOU THE MOST FOR 
YOUR MONEY 

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PRUNING AND TRAINING EVERGREENS 
1—A. New shoot or “Candle” of pine in correct condition for cutting back. 
B. Last year growth from which new shoot originates. 
C. Cut “candle,” as at ’C,’’ and buds for next year’s growth will be formed at the 
point of cutting. 
II—A. Stake for tying shoot to form new leader in Spruce. 
B. Position of shoot before tying. 
C. Shoot tied in position to replace “‘lost’’ leader. 
D. Two-year wood from which new shoots grew. 
