Winter Protection 
In the fall, usually about mid-November and before tem- 
peratures get below 18-20°F. above zero, the plants should be 
mulched with straw to a depth of about 3 inches. In the 
spring, early April, just as the new leaves are starting from 
the crown, remove part of the straw to the space between the 
rows, leaving a thin covering over the plants for the leaves 
and blossoms to grow through and the fruit to rest on later. 
Weed the bed about blossoming time if necessary. Do not 
fertilize the bed in the spring of the bearing year unless the 
soil is very poor, or the bed has not been mulched. 
GRAPES 
See Pages 44-45 
Grapes should be grown in an open airy situation to lessen 
injury from fungus diseases. Slopes are preferable as frosts 
are later than in low spots. Late varieties ripen better on the 
south side of a building or solid fence. The soil must be well- 
drained. 
Planting 
Either one or two year plants are suitable and may be set 
either in the fall or spring, but fall-set plants should be 
mounded up to the first winter. Space vines 8 feet apart. 
Vines may be trained on arbors, porches or a trellis of two 
wires, one 2% feet above the ground, the upper 2 feet above 
the lower. Posts about 25 feet apart with end posts braced. 
Training 
With Kniffin system of training the vine has a trunk to top 
wire and an arm in each direction on both wires. Newly set 
vines are cut back to one or two buds. New shoot is staked 
up to form a trunk and when it reaches top wire is pinched 
off and laterals led out, one along each top wire. The next 
year two laterals are led along the lower wires, the other be- 
ing rubbed off. Thereafter, at the annual pruning in the 
spring leave a strong lateral along each wire and remove 
other canes. Laterals should have 6-10 buds each. Leave 
more buds on vigorous vines, fewer on weak vines. If vigor- 
ous vines bloom well but set light crops, leave more buds ‘next 
year. If vines over load and fruit fails to ripen well leave 
fewer buds next year. Grapes should not be summer pruned. 
Fertilize with ammonium nitrate or nitrate of soda at rate 
of 4% to % pound per vine or stable manure. Strong growing 
vines do not need fertilizing. Keep down weeds until August 
with cultivation or mulch. 
RHUBARB 
See Page 46 
Rhubarb is highly prized for sauce and pies in the spring 
before other fruits and vegetables are ready. Rich soils are 
essential and a heavy application of manure should be made 
in advance of planting. An annual application of manure, or 
commercial fertilizer, is desirable. Use the manure at the 
rate of 3 to 6 bushels to 100 square feet, or 5-10-5 fertilizer 
plus 1 pound of nitrate of soda, or % pound of ammonium 
nitrate for the same area. Plant the roots in early spring 3 
to 4 inches deep and 3 feet apart in the row, and at one side 
of the garden as they last for many years. Clean cultivate or 
mulch, as vigorous growth means high yields and tender 
stalks. Pull only a few stalks the second year, but thereafter 
a full crop may be harvested for about 2 months each spring. 
Early rhubarb may be had by covering a hill with a sash 
over a box just before growth starts. Rhubarb may be forced 
in a box of soil in the cellar during the winter if the roots are 
brought in after experiencing a hard freeze. 
CURRANTS AND GOOSEBERRIES 
See Page 20 
Currants and gooseberries are both valuable home garden 
fruits that should be grown much more than at present. Both 
yield heavy crops annually and have many uses in the kitchen. 
They will grow in the sun or in the shade of the north side of 
a building or fence and may be successfully interplanted be- 
tween young fruit trees or grape vines. 
Well-drained fertile soils, preferably rather heavy in tex- 
ture, are best, but the lighter types will do if heavily fertilized 
and mulched in time of drought. They may be planted in late 
fall or early spring, and spaced 5 feet apart in the row. At 
planting time cut the canes back to 6 or 8 inches. Cultivate 
shallowly, or mulch to keep down weeds. 
Strawy manure may be applied to a depth of 2 or 3 inches 
to provide fertility and act as a mulch. If manure is not avail- 
able, apply about 4 ounces of nitrate of soda or 2 ounces of 
ammonium nitrate per plant in early spring, but not applying 
any the year the plants are set. On light soils a complete fer- 
tilizer may be needed in addition to the above, in which case 
use % pound of a 5-10-5 formula to each plant. 
Currants and gooseberries in good vigor produce so many 
canes that the bushes soon become too crowded. Pruning con- 
sists of removing all canes over 3 years old and thinning out 
the weaker remaining canes so that the pruned bush consists 
of 9 or 10 canes evenly divided between 1, 2 and 3 year old 
wood. 
Currants for jelly should be picked before fully ripe as there 
is more pectin at that time. Gooseberries make excellent jam 
and jelly and may be used green for pies and sauce when two 
thirds grown. 
ASPARAGUS 
See Page 46 
Asparagus is an easily grown perennial that is ready to use 
in early spring. The beds last 15-20 years and should be set 
at one side of the garden. Set one year old roots 18 inches 
apart in a trench 4-6 inches deep and 4 feet apart if more than 
one row. Cover the roots at first with only 2 inches of soil, 
filling in gradually when cultivating. Begin cutting the third 
season and cut for one month. In following years the bed may 
be cut for two months. Fertilize with a complete fertilizer 
and control weeds. If beetles feed on foliage dust with 
rotenone. 
BLUEBERRIES 
See Page 46 
Blueberries are a valuable home garden and commercial 
fruit and deserve a place in every home garden with soils that 
are acid, or can be made acid. 
Acid Soil Required 
Acid soils are essential for blueberries. If in doubt, have 
the soil tested by the Farm Bureau, and if the pH is under 5.5, 
blueberries may be planted. If over 5.0, spade in aluminum 
sulphate as follows to each 100 sq. ft. 
To change to pH of 4.5 use 
on sandy soils on loam soils 
If present pH 
of your soil is 
5.0 2.4 lbs. 7.2 Ibs 
5.5 eae 8.3 ” 
6.0 12 ” 21.0 ” 
6.5 90 ” 27.6” 
7.0 114 ” 34.8 ” 
Location 
Blueberries grow much better and on drier sites when 
mulched than when cultivated. Sawdust of any kind and age 
is the ideal mulching material, but peat and other materials, 
except legumes, will do. Twice as much nitrogen is necessary 
during the first few years of a sawdust mulch. 
Fertilization 
Use no fertilizer the first year, but the second spring apply 
2 ozs. of a 5-10-5 formula and if sawdust is used apply an ad- 
ditional 2 ozs. of sulphate of ammonia. Increase these 
amounts by 2 ozs. each year until the bushes are receiving 8 
ozs. annually. 
Pruning 
Pruning is necessary after the third year to prevent over- 
bearing and to maintain berry size. Remove low-spreading 
branches near the ground, at least one old cane each year, and 
remove the weaker new canes, leaving 2 or 3 of the stronger 
to gradually renew the bushes. 
A few bushes near buildings may need a cheesecloth cover 
to prevent birds from taking the berries. 
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