
VEGETABLE SEED CULTURE 
There’s no end to the science of vegetable gardening—nor to the books 
that have been written about this fascinating subject. But if you haven’t 
the time to read all the books, then try the brief paragraphs that follow. 
Here are the fundamental facts—the things every vegetable gardener 
should Know—AND DO! 
ASPARAGUS 
Soak seed 24 hrs. before planting. 
Sow in loose, rich, moist soil after 
danger from frost is past. Thin to 
stand 6” apart. In early spring, set 
in permanent position, 24” apart, 
in rows 36” apart. Set in hole so 
that crown is 8” below surface, but 
only cover tips with 3” of soil. As 
plants grow, fill in until level. 
Don’t cut first year after setting. 
SNAP BEANS 
Don’t plant until danger from frost 
is over. 
Sow beans in bottom of 3” to 4” 
furrow, 18” between rows, but do 
not fill in with more than 1” of 
soil over seeds. Thin to stand 4” 
to 6” apart in row. Bean seedlings 
are likely to break their necks 
pushing through heavy soil. In 
such soils, cover seeds with mix- 
ture of half sand and half soil, or 
sand and peat or any other loose, 
light material that will allow seed- 
lings to break through easily. 
Make successive sowings every 2-3 
weeks until 60 days before frost. 
Don’t cultivate beans when wet: 
this may spread disease. 
BUSH LIMA BEANS 
Plant two weeks later than bush 
snap beans, when soil is warm. 
Space rows 24” apart; otherwise 
follow instructions for snap beans. 
POLE BEANS and POLE LIMAS 
Both these should be planted two 
weeks after bush beans. Rough 
poles set 3 feet apart should be 
used. Anchor well, as heavy bean- 
vines blow over easily. Sometimes 
three poles set to form a tepee are 
used and several seeds planted 
around each tepee. 
SPECIAL NOTE ON ALL BEANS. 
—Two scientific facts about beans 
will help produce better’ crops. 
First, being legumes, they should 
be inoculated with special legume 
culture listed in supply section. 
This enables plants to manufacture 
own nitrogen from the air. Second, 
bud drop of the tiny flowers (even 
before they can be easily seen) 
cuts the early set of pods. By 
spraying with FRUITONE these 
buds are held on and the early 
crop increased as much as 100%. 
BEETS 
Each “seed” is a fruit with several 
true seeds. No matter how thinly 
beets are sown, they will need 
thinning. Plant as soon as ground 
can be worked in spring, thin 
gradually (use thinnings as greens) 
until roots stand 4” apart. Make 
three sowings, one early, one three 
weeks later and one 60 days before 
frost is expected. 
BRUSSELS SPROUTS 
Grow like late cabbage, but don’t 
use until after heads have been 
frosted. 

BROCCOLI 
Start plants indoors 5 weeks before 
last- frost- ~sets outs 127 x24". 
Broccoli heads must be harvested 
before they bloom: they are in- 
edible after yellow flowers appear. 
Direct-seed for late crop 60 days 
before frost is expected. 
Special Directions for Control- 
ling Insects in Cauliflower, 
Broccoli and Brussels Sprouts 
Use Rotenone dust or spray. It 
must hit insects directly, so drive 
them out of inner head by dusting 
or spraying with light dose of 
Rotenone. Allow plant to stand for 
10 minutes, then go back over the 
same row with a heavy dose of 
Rotenone. By this time the worms 
will be out on the surface and are 
sure to be killed. Repeat every 
10 days. 
Ask us how to control root 
maggots that harm cabbage, 
Brussels sprouts, onions, rad- 
ishes, and turnips—also how to 
guard against the carrot rust 
fly. 
EARLY CABBAGE 
Start plants inside (see Page 14). 
Set out 12” x 24” as soon as frost 
danger is past. Dusting with D.D.T. 
is safe if outer leaves are dis- 
carded, since plant grows from the 
inside out. 
LATE CABBAGE 
Direct-seed four months before 
frost is expected, thinning to 24” 
x 36”. Or start plant indoors (see 
Page 14) 30 days before needed, 
transplanting outdoors 90 days be- 
fore frost. Don’t water freely 
when heads are nearly filled, as 
this promotes splitting; irrigate 
only enough to keep plants grow- 
ing well. 
CELERY 
Start in hotbed 60 days before 
needed. In setting outdoors, don’t 
get soil in or over crown. Set 7” 
to 12” apart. Soil must be rich, 
moist and loose. As soon as plants 
have grown to 14” to 15” tall, set 
12” boards on both sides of row 
and hold in place with earth. Or 
4” drain tile can be used to blanch 
individual stalks. 
-Celery must have warm, settled 
weather: if chilled, plants are 
likely to go to seed. 
CHINESE CABBAGE 
Must never be grown as a spring 
crop since it will only go to seed. 
Plant after June 15th, as days are 
getting shorter: then it will head. 
An excellent succession crop to 
follow early peas. 
COLLARDS 
Follow directions for early cab- 
bage. 
(Continued on Page 17) 


ae 
CAULIFLOWER, Early Snowball 

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