production of commercial cut flowers. One can increase the stock by planting the freely 
produced seed. For pure seed, do not plant two varieties near together or the insects will 
cross pollinate them. 
A. pelegrina. “Lily of The Incas.” Dark rose. Inner petals spotted reddish purple. 
25c ea. $2.50 per doz. 
A. pelegrina alba. Pure white Lily of The Incas. 25c ea. $2.50 doz. 
A. Assorted colors and varieties. 20c ea. $1.50 doz. 
Amarcrinum Howardii (Crinodonna Howardi is the better name.) A cross between 
Brunsvigia rosea (Amaryllis belladonna) and Crinum moorei. Flowers are a pure pink 
and very attractive. As it is a winter bloomer and profuse, it is a valuable bulb for a 
large pot. $2.50 ea. Jumbo bulbs that will give more flowers, $4.00. 
Amaryllis Linn. This genus as constructed by Linneaus was untenable because he 
included plants now known to belong to other genera. The invalid name Hippeastrum 
was used by both Herbert and Baker, but now we are scientifically correct when we 
use the name that has always been most popular. To the word “Hippeastrum,” literally 
translated “horse star” we can now say “horse feathers,” and forget the word. 
Amaryllis are the easiest, the most showy and popular of all bulbs for growing in 
pots. Equally desirable for southern gardens where they are hardy along the east coast 
to N. Car. and on the west to Vancouver. In the middle section they may be grown as 
far north as Ark. and. Okla., but note special directions for colder sections. 
How To Grow Amaryllis. In the garden, in the deep south where temperatures go 
only a few degrees under freezing, Amaryllis bulbs need to be covered only about an 
inch or two. Farther north they should be planted about an inch below frost penetration, 
in protected places and mulched with straw, leaves and/or brush. In Okla., a customer 
reports a depth of 4” with mulch is safe. Let 6” and in sandy soil be the limit, preferably 
less. Why not mound them over with soil and mulch to be removed in spring? 
In Pots. A bulb 3” or less in diam. needs a 7” pot, and larger bulbs need larger 
pots. It is better to pot in Nov. or Dec. Better blooms result. But one can pot them as 
late as March and it is better late than never. The early potted bulbs will start more 
easily and give better flowers, but in either case the flowers will be better and will show 
more fully their full quality the second year. 
The best potting soil is a rich sandy loam. If not sandy use a friable loam and add 
sand. To this add an equal quantity of well screened and well rotted dairy manure and 
leaf mould. Use no fresh or partially decayed manure and no peat or sphagnum. One 
tablespoonful of bone meal to each pot is recommended. Mix all ingredients thoroly. 
In potting the bulbs, carefully preserve any living roots, even remnants. Clean but 
do not scrape the base of the bulb and dust the moistened surface of base and the roots 
with Rootone. If there are no roots, coat base of bulb with Rootone, which will hasten 
their formation. | 
Pot the bulb two-thirds above surface and water well. After this keep the soil only 
slightly moist until growth starts, then gradually increase. When first potted set them 
in a cool, light room but not in sunlight. The best temperature now is not over 50°. 
The bulbs must have sufficient time to form a good root system under these conditions. 
If placed in a warm room and exposed to the sun, top growth will be made before roots, 
and the results are poor flowers or none. 
When you are sure that roots have formed, but not before, water the plants as 
directed with Vit. B-1. But be sure to leave the bulbs a sufficient length of time in a 
cool room. They need this period of dormancy and sufficient time to make a good root 
system. Many fail because they try to force the bulbs before they have rested and have 
made good roots. If you get a poor flower it may be because the bulb had no roots and 
had only the sustenance stored in the bulb from which to make flowers. Lack of a 
good root system to nourish the flower will affect the quality of the flower in every 
way—size, substance and even color. So, don’t remove pots from the cool room too 
soon. Wait until they demand it by top growth. Then bring the pots by easy stage to a 
temperature of 50°, 60°, then about 70°. 
After flowering the bulb has shrunk and a long period of growth is necessary. 
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