Most large bulbs, like Amaryllis, may have #4 of bulb above surface but small 
bulbs, especially Anemones and Ranunculus, should be covered about 1”. 
Use clean pots. It is advisable to boil and scrub the surface. Even new clay pots 
should be boiled, or soaked for two days to remove chemicals. Cover the hole at bottom 
with a piece of broken pot, concave side down. Above this place small pieces of broken 
pot and gravel. This helps to drain away excess water. 
The drainage must be perfect and it is essential that the soil above this drainage 
material be of a friable texture that permits water to pass thru freely. 
The best soil is a rich sandy loam with the addition of plenty of humus. For humus 
one can combine rotted leaf mould and old rotted dairy manure well broken up and 
rubbed thru a screen of smallest gauge. For most plants the proportion can be % 
sandy loam, 4% humus. 
Fertilizers. Many advise the addition of fertilizer to potting soils. We never use 
any except the rotted dairy manure and leaf mould and sometimes a tablespoon of bone 
meal. If new roots come into contact with much fertilizer they are burned. Commercial 
fertilizer is especially a hazard. When the plants have become well rooted and have made 
a good top growth, most of them will be helped by using liquid manure. Cover manure 
with water and allow to settle. Pour off water and dilute further until it is a very light 
amber, the color of weak tea. This can be used about every two weeks but don’t use it 
on dry soil and thirsty plants. 
Sun exposure. Note requirements of plants under listings. For full sun, use a south 
window. For half sun use an east or west window and add a thin curtain if it proves 
too much. For Clivias and others requiring full shade or only a little filtered sunlight, 
use a north window or place on a stand at a distance from window, but always give 
plenty of light and good ventilation, especially in gas heated rooms. 
Temperature. Most bulbs root better in a cool room of 45°. There must not be too 
much water given while roots are starting as it may cause bulbs to rot even when cool. 
When a bud or foliage shows that growth has started, gradually bring the temperature 
to about 70° and water a little more. The best temperatures for plants vary. Some like 
more warmth than others. This is indicated in the special culture directions for these 
plants. 
Probably more failures in forcing bulbs result from starting the forcing process 
(bringing the bulbs into a warm room with more light) before they are well rooted, than 
from any other cause. 
CATALOG ARRANGEMENT 
is by Plant Families, according to their relationships. 
In the following lists the genus (plu. genera) is mentioned first. After it, the 
species (plu. also species) or horticultural variety is named. The initial of the genus is 
used for the second and succeeding species. Thus A. will stand for Amaryllis or 
Agapanthus depending on the genus last named in full. When a person’s name in 
parentheses follows a plant’s botanical name, that person is the botanical authority for 
the name. 
THE AMARYLLIS FAMILY—Amaryllidaceae 
This Family includes the following bulbs, Agapanthus thru The Alliae. 
The American Plant Life Society was founded in 1934 as The American Amaryllis 
Society. The interests of the Society have recently been enlarged to include other bulbs 
and plants and the name changed, but with no lessening in interest in Amaryllids. 
The annual book, “Herbertia,” is devoted to Amaryllids. It consists of about 250 
pages, beautifully illustrated, on fine book paper, and is edited by Dr. Hamilton P. Traub 
of the U.S. Dept. of Agriculture, the greatest living authority on the Amaryllidaceae. 
Each member receives a copy. 
The members also receive the occasional publication, “Plant Life,” on other bulbs 
and plants. 
Those who grow Amaryllis as an interesting and intellectual hobby and who love’ 
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