How to Grow Gloxinias. Pot the tubers, preferably in Feb. or Mar. April plantings 
will do well, if you can get the tubers. We expect to have them as late as April but a few 
sorts may be sold out. Cover the tubers lightly. Gloxinias like Caladiums are tropical. 
The tubers must be stored in a warm room, packed in dry sand or peat, not exposed to 
the air or to moisture. 
Our tubers may be set in 5” pots. Read our Potting Directions on a previous page. 
A good soil is one-third each of peat, rich fibrous loam and sand. If the loam is low 
in humus, combine it with well rotted leaf mould that has been rubbed thru a 4%” — 
mesh screen. 
A good starting and growing temperature is 60° at night and about 70° day time. 
A little higher during the day will not hurt them and in the summer when in full 
growth the temperatures nature provides will be higher. At all times they must be 
shaded. Keep them slightly on the dry side when starting, but still moist enough to 
start growth. When in good growth they require abundant moisture and high humidity 
of the air. Cold air currents must not strike the plants. Protect always from wind and 
drafts. Water from a can, using tepid water in cold months. Allow no moisture to touch 
foliage. 
Altho very few of our customers blame their bulbs when an occasional failure 
results, they do sometimes ask me why nine bulbs grew and one did not. Since long- 
distance diagnosis is impossible, I tell you here more definitely than most books on bulb 
culture, the conditions necessary for success. The average amateur will be able to succeed. 
But if you overwater when starting the tubers, allow the temperature to go down 
to 34° a few nights, a few tubers may fail. There is a certain amount of tolerance, but 
not the same degree, in Gloxinias and in all plants. Thus one dies but a dozen may 
survive if your culture is only 75% correct. 
After flowering lessen the water given, gradually. When the tops are dead give 
only enough water to prevent shriveling. By Feb. some of the tubers will show growth. 
Repot the tubers as soon as they start to grow. 
We offer only Calif. grown Gloxinias, and Tub. Begonias and Florida grown 
Caladiums because they are the best in the world. I could buy Belgian grown Gloxinias 
for less and sell them at a lower price, but it has been reported to us that at least some 
of the European Nurseries are growing strains that have inferior flowers. 
We offer 114”-114” tubers in the following varieties: Blanche de Meru, rose, white 
throat; Emperor Frederick, scarlet, white border; Emperor William, violet, white border; 
Etoile de Feu, scarlet; Mont Blanc, pure white; Prince Albert, frilled, dark violet; 
Princess Elizabeth, blue, white throat; Roi des Rouges, frilled, dark crimson; Tigrinia, 
from light rose to dark lavender; Violacea, soft violet; Brown’s Red; Othello, deep 
purple. Price 50c ea. The complete collection, 12 var., all labelled, for $5.50. 
Achimines are close relatives of Gloxinias and belong also to the Gesneriaceae. Altho 
distinctly different, the genera Achimines and Sinningia are closely parallel in the 
color and form of their flowers, foliage characteristics, ecology in nature and culture. 
The tubular flowers are mostly in purple tones altho white, pink and red are seen. 
Culture. Achimines tubers are very small and in our arid climate they dry out 
easily if improperly stored. They should be covered by dry sand and stored at a minimum 
temp. of 45°. It is best to start at once when received if this is Mar. 1, or later. They 
may be grown in pots or wire baskets. As Achimines are shallow rooting, and the roots 
need air, fill the pot 4 full of drainage material. 8” wire baskets are ideal containers 
and will hold several plants. If too full, they transplant easily. Line the basket well with 
sphagnum moss and place the compost in the center. Baskets are listed with Orchid 
supplies on a later page. 
The best compost for Achimines is one part sand or very sandy loam and two parts 
well rotted leaf mould or leaf mould and peat. Some commercial growers use a little 
well rotted manure in the starting compost but this adds a little hazard, as it can start 
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