ROSE PLANTING INSTRUCTIONS 
Cut No Roots! Leave All Roots On! Cut No Roots! 
Plant your roses as soon as received, providing the ground is not frozen 
too hard to receive them. Hard frozen ground is the only reason for not 
planting roses. The bushes do not mind cold or wet. 
When you open the bundle see that roots are kept moist. Do not expose 
them to drying winds or sun for a moment. Keep roots in a bucket of water 
during »vlanting operations. Should the roses seem to be dried out through 
shipping delay soak roots and tops in water for 72 hours. They may die 
if planted when they are dried out. 
Put no manure, trash or fertilizer in hole where bush is planted. It may 
cause root canker or burn the roots. Put only clean soil or subsoil on all sides 
of roots. This is VERY IMPORTANT. Do not ignore it. Never plant new rose 
bushes in soil from which old roses have been removed. Always change soil 
from a bed of annuals or similar source. 
A CONE OF SOIL must be made under the center of each plant, where 
the roots spread downward in all directions, to avoid an air pocket. Do not 
put your bushes in a flat trench or hole and try to force the center flat 
against*the soil without this support. In planting make the hole or trench 
large and deep enough to accommodate all roots when spread out and down 
at an angle of 30 degrees. Plant the union of rose and understock well above 
soil level. The HIGHER THE UNION the healthier and longer lived your 
rose will be. 
TEN EXTRA MINUTES spent in planting each bush PROPERLY will 
give you enormously greater results in years to come. The big roots on my 
plants will work miracles if allowed to. 
With your bush placed work soil among roots, gradually firming it down 
until the hole is nearly full. Then trample firmly over your now well covered 
roots until you could not possibly pull up the bush with your hands. If you 
are planting in mud omit the tramping, but tamp soil firmly from time to 
time. 
Now fill the remainder of the hole with water, even though you are 
planting in mud, to carry earth down into air pockets that may be left and 
would cause roots in such pockets to decay instead of growing. Finish with 
a final layer of loose soil. 
If you have received bushes having more than four or five canes, thin 
out the surplus canes, allowing no more than above number on a newly 
planted bush. Remove with a clean cut at base of the plant, and protect all 
wounds with tree paint or emulsified asphalt. 
HILLING: All canes are to be completely covered with soil after the 
bush is planted, either in winter or spring. For winter covering in severe 
climates like Minnesota and Montana a foot of loose material such as peat 
or anything else of that nature that is handy will do, tho soil should be used 
if other material is not available this is to be covered when hard frozen in 
order to prevent early thaws. This may also be used the following summer 
to protect and keep cool the roots as well as protect the union of the rose and 
the understock which is the weakest part of the rose. 
Be sure and paint the huge wounds on the ends of the canes to prevent 
drying out and possible dying of these canes—there has been some loss of 
plants by ignoring this factor as it is impossible to handle a huge plant like 
mine in the same manner as a small one. 
2 
