GLADIOLUS CULTURE 
Gladiolus may be planted any time from early spring to June; planting at intervals 
will prolong the blooming season. 
KIND OF SOIL—Any good garden soil is satisfactory but must be well drained. 
Plant 5 to 6 inches deep. 
FERTILIZING—If commerciai fertilizer is used it should be well mixed with the 
soil. If manure is used it should not come in contact with the bulb. A light top dress- 
ing of fish meal tankage or sheep guano will be very beneficial when the flower buds 
begin to show. 
WHEN CUTTING flowers, always leave at least four leaves on the plant to mature 
the bulb. 

DIGGING may be done any time from a month to six weeks after blooming, longer 
if they were planted early. Should foliage begin to turn brown, dig at once. Cut 
the tops close to the bulb and dry in any partial sunny place for a few days. Burn all 
tops immediately after digging. Then store for two or three weeks in a dry place until 
the old bulb and roots can be easily removed. The husks should be left on the bulb 
for added protection. 
STORAGE—Store for the winter in frost-proof, cool, dry place, preferably at a 
temperature as near 45 to 50 degrees as possible. 
TREATMENT OF BULBS IN STORAGE—Before the final winter storage, bulbs 
should be treated to insure their being free of thrips at planting time. For the aver- 
age amateur grower the most satisfactory way to kill thrips on the bulbs in storage 
is with napthalene flakes. Use the refined flakes, not the crude napthalene such as 
is used for soil fumigation. Sprinkle the flakes through the bulbs at the rate of about 
one ounce to each 200 large bulbs. If in boxes or crates cover with a paper or cloth 
to confine the fumes, or if treated in paper bags, just fold over the top of the bag. 
Do not treat bulbs in metal cans and do not treat bulbs that are damp. If bulbs have 
sprouted, place napthalene so that it does not come in actual contact «with the bulbs. 
Moisture in combination with the napthalene will cause a certain amount of damage 
to the bulbs. The fumes will kill all live thrips and if the bulbs are kept in a warm 
place during this treatment of about 70 degrees the eggs will hatch out and the young 
thrips will then be killed. Bulbs must be kept in a warm place during this treatment. 
This treatment can be given any time during the winter, but preferably early. Leave 
the flakes in the bulbs for about four weeks, then shake out the remaining flakes, air 
the bulbs and store for the winter. 
TREATMENT OF BULBS AT PLANTING TIME—To make doubly sure that no 
eggs have survived the winter and to help eliminate disease from your bulbs, we rec- 
ommend that all the bulbs you plant—no matter from what source obtained—be 
treated at planting time as follows: LYSOL—1 pint to 25 gallons of water or 3% 
tablespoonfuls Lysol to 3 gallons of water; soak 3 hours. This is the most satisfactory 
dip for the home gardener to use, gives 100% kill on thrips and controls scab. Cor- 
rosive sublimate was the recommended dip for years but Lysol is easier to use, requires 
a shorter soak and is less detrimetnal to the bulbs. 
SPRAYING GROWING PLANTS—If thrips are prevalent in your community and 
some of your neighbors may not have treated their bulbs, it will be wise to start spray- 
ing your plants when they are about six to eight inches high, using the following 
formula: 
TARTAR EMETIC 
Tartar shnvetic 2... eee 41% tablespoonfuls 
Brown sugar]... eee eee 1% pound 
Watere 4 (22550. ace ere eee 3 gallons 
Use this spray about once a week until buds begin to show color. at which time 
it can be discontinued. Do not use spray left over from previous sprayvings. Mix a new 
batch each time. 
