CULTURAL HINTS 
Packages of bulbs must be opened as soon as received and the bulbs stored in a cool, dry place 
until planting time. ; 
PLANTING DATES. Any iime from early Spring until the first of July. The blooming season 
can be prolonged until frost if planted at intervals of every three weeks. 
WHERE TO PLANT. Glads should be planted in open, sunny places, away from buildings and 
trees. They are primarily cut flowers and should be planted in rows such as a vegetable garden. 
SOIL. Glads will grow in any kind of soil but do best in a sandy loam. The soil must be well 
drained. It pays to spade deeply. 
FERTILIZING. The amount to use will depend upon the fertility of your soil. Any good com- 
mercial fertilizer will give good results or you can ask your dealer for the fertilizer commonly 
used on potatoes in your locality. Most growers prefer to place the fertilizer in the bottom of 
the trench as the bulbs are planted. Care must be taken to see that the fertilizer is mixed with 
the soil and then about 2 inches of soil placed over the mixture. The bulbs should then be set 
in the row, leaving the 2 inches of soil between them and the fertilizer. 
DISINFECTING. All bulbs and bulblets should be dipped in a disinfectant in order to kill thrips 
and to prevent possible disease infection on the bulbs. Nothing will cure bulbs affected with 
any of the rots. Bulbs showing rot should be discarded at once. (See formulas for Dips and 
Sprays.) 
PLANTING. Plant from 3 to 6 inches deep. Small bulbs should be planted about 3 inches deep 
and larger sizes up to 6 inches deep. If you have a heavy clay soil 4 to 5 inches will be deep 
enough. The bulbs should be set not closer than 4 inches apart in the rows and the soil must be 
firmed well after planting. 
WATERING. Glads need plenty of moisture. To produce top bloom they should have 1¥% to 2 
inches of water per week. Whenever the natural rainfall fails to supply this quantity be sure to 
put it on in the form of irrigation. It is best to water just once or twice a week, soaking the soil 
well, so that the roots are not pushing upward to the surface of the ground. 
CUTTING BLOOMS. Glads are the most popular cut flower grown today. To enjoy them at their 
best the spikes should be cut when the first floret is in full bloom. They should be placed in 
water at once and taken indoors to develop slowly. You can enjoy a spike a long time as a 
good variety will open every bud to the tip, in water. If the water in the vase is changed daily 
and about an inch of the stem is cut off (slantwise) each day, many varieties will keep for as 
long as a week. When cutting the spike always leave 4 leaves on the plant to develop the bulb 
for next year. 
DIGGING. Bulbs should not be dug until about 8 weeks after blooming. This is in order to 
mature the bulbs. A good sign is to watch the foliage and when it begins to turn brown, dig at 
once. After the tops are cut off, close to the bulb, dry the bulbs in the air in trays or boxes. It is 
best not to allow the sun to shine directly on them while drying. After 2 or 3 weeks of drying 
the old bulb and roots can then be removed. DO NOT remove the husks as this protects the 
bulb during storage. 
STORAGE. After drying, the bulbs should be stored in screen bottom trays or boxes in the 
coolest place available. They must not be exposed to freezing temperatures. The ideal storage 
temperature is 38 to 45 degrees. Bulbs should not be placed too deeply in the boxes as they 
need air while in storage. 
When you get ready to store your bulbs be sure to give them a light dusting of 5% D.D.T. 
This will eliminate any danger of thrips feeding on your bulbs during storage period. 
Glads are easy to grow and anyone, even a beginner, can grow the finest show flowers! 
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