Gladiolus Care and C ultwre 
(Revised to September, 1947) 
When bulbs are received they should be opened at once and stored in a cool, dry place. The best temperature 
for storage is about 40 degrees. 
PLANTING TIME: Is in general when the soil is warmed up in the spring. It may be in Central New 
York from April 15th to July 1st, depending somewhat upon the time bloom is wanted, and the variety planted. 
The average planting date here is about June Ist. When Maple leaves begin to open is probably the earliest. 
THE BEST PLACE TO PLANT: Is where they will have full sun, as they do best if they have no com- 
petition from trees and shrubs nearby. A soil that will grow good Potatoes will be most satisfactory, but Glads are 
very tolerant in their soil requirements. Good drainage is quite essential to best performance, as Glads like lots of 
water during the period before bloom, but they don’t like wet feet. They grow best in neutral soil, but will also 
do well where it is slightly sweet or acid. 
DISINFECTING: Bulbs should be clean when planted. If there are thrip on them, they should be killed 
by DDT Dust, 5% in storage. There is no use planting thrip to grow. Bulbs should be disinfected regardless of 
where they were obtained. Also those you already have may have fungus spores on them. We recommend in order 
of preference the following dips. These do not necessarily kill thrip. They are intended to control Gladiolus diseases. 
NEW IMPROVED CERESAN: One ounce of New Improved Ceresan, 3 teaspoons of Grasseli Spreadev- 
Sticker, 3 gallons of water. For larger quantities: % |b. of New Improved Ceresan, 5 tablespoons of Grasseli- 
Spreader-Sticker, 25 gallons of water. Soak BULBS 15 minutes: soak BULBLETS 30 minutes. Let drain and 
plant the same day, while wet if possible. Do not exceed the time specified and if you cannot plant the same day, 
rinse the bulbs off thoroughly. 
IMPORTANT — FOLLOW DIRECTIONS CAREFULLY 
To mix easily, add the Spreader-Sticker to the Ceresan with a small amount cf water and stir until a smooth 
paste is formed; then add the remainder of the water. When stirring this do not use the hands, as the concentrated 
mixture can cause serious burns. Use a wooden paddle. Bulbs treated in the weak solution can be handled safely. 
Do not forget you may lose your bulbs if you leave them in this solution longer than the 15 minutes for bulbs, or 
30 minutes for bulblets. 
LYSOL: For most amateurs this is probably the easiest and safest dip to use. One teaspoon Lysol to 1 quart of 
water; 4 tablespoons to three gallons of water; 1 pint of Lysol to 25 gallons of water. Soak bulbs in solution three 
to six hours; bulblets 12 to 14 hours. Plant the same day as treated, while wet if possible. 
CRESOL COMPOUND: This may be substituted for Lysol in the above formula—same quantity. Your 
local druggist will have a supply of LYSOL. We can supply you with CRESOL COMPOUND. As far as is knowa 
at least five lots of bulbs or bulblets can be treated effectively in any of the above dips. 
Have a Supply of Dipping Materials Shipped With Your Order 
SOIL PREPARATION: A good coat of rotted cow manure plowed or spaded under the fall before planting 
will make a very fine start. The soil should be spaded or plowed rather deep to give the roots opportunity to secure 
food and moisture at a lower level. As it is difficult to obtain manure generally, we would use in place of it, peat 
moss as a humus along with a good fertilizer such as 4-8-8 or 4-12-8 for bloom production, and 4-8-12 for production 
of bulbs. Any garden compost will serve as good humus or if possible a crop of rye, clover, soybeans or rye grass, 
plowed under the year before is excellent. 
For bloom production, on medium to heavy soil, one half the fertilizer should be broadcast on top before plowing 
or spading, and the balance before fitting the ground. This should give excellent results. For exhibition blooms 
some like to place part of the fertilizer in the bottom of the trench, mixed with the soil, and an inch or so of peat 
moss on top for humus. Most of our soils are deficient tn humus and peat moss is an excellent aid in building up 
this lack, retaining moisture in light, sandy soils, and loosening up the heavier clay types. Most of our special plant- 
ing plots would be much improved by this method. It is especially valuable in growing bulblets or Gladiolus seed. 
PLANTING BULBS: Bulbs may be planted three to six inches apart in the row, with the rows twenty 
inches to three feet apart. For choice show blooms, six inches apart is probably best, with rows at least thirty inches 
apart. Depth for large bulbs varies with the type of soil, four to five inches in heavier soil, and up to six inches in 
lighter, sandy types. Small bulbs about three inches, and bulblets one and one-half to two inches deep. Be sure to 
give plenty of water during and before the blooming season. 
BULBLET GROWING. Small lots of valuable bulblets may be peeled or cracked, with quicker and surer 
start to be expected. Larger lots that may need help in starting can be aided by soaking at night and sunning in a 
cloth bag by day, for a week or so. When bulblets have been peeled we would advise dipping as if they were bulbs, 
if using New Improved Ceresan or Lysol. 
CARE: After planting, cultivating once a week and weeding will help growth. Cultivation may be deeper at first, 
but later very shallow, to avoid cutting off feeder roots. Hilling up before these roots get too long, (when about a 
foot high) will aid in holding the blooming spikes erect during windy weather. When spikes are up to a foot or more 
they should have heavy watering once a week if there is no rain. 
FOR EXHIBITION BLOOMS: To give these an extra boost, fertilizer may be side-dressed when the 
plants are nearly in the bud stage. Scattering about a handful each three feet along the side of the row. Place this 
about three inches from the plants, just before a rain or heavy watering, and cultivate in well. 
SPRAY: From the time the spikes or plants are six inches high, they should be sprayed or dusted for thrip. 
Thrip may be planted on your bulbs having lived over in storage or been brought in on bulbs you got from your 
neighbor. They may blow in from some distance, or fly in, as at one stage of their existence they can fly as far as 
one-half mile. Therefore, even if your planting is assumed to be clean, you should spray or dust for thrip control. 
A spray that has been widely accepted and has been very effective is the Tartar Emetic Spray. This is made up as 
follows: 1 ounce Tartar Emetic (about 414 teaspoons) 2 ounces brown sugar, 3 gallons of water. (3 tablespoons of 
molasses or corn syrup may be substituted for sugar.) 
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