If the tree is planted in a heavy, clay, hard-pan, subsoil, which 
stops moisture penetrating from rainfalls and the free entry of air, 
the application of a compost is necessary, It is advisable to make 
the hole larger and refill it with horticultural peat moss or well- 
rotted cow manure mixed with soil as it has proven to be a great 
benefit. 
ACID SOIL—Use lime. Lime is not a fertilizer, but a rock 
that contains no chemicals, and is of benefit to the soil through its 
physical and chémical effects. Should be applied once a year to 
land which is inclined to become sour. The most practical type 
of agricultural lime to use is raw ground limestone, and air-slacked 
lime. Limestone may be bought, is safe to use and is effective. 
Lime is a safe investment and should be added to the soil whether 
sweet or sour because it will improve the flavor and quality of 
the fruit. 
SWEET SOIL may be changed to acid soil by adding sulphate 
of potash or super-phosphate to the soil. Often the addition of 
leafmold, peat or saw dust, all of which possesses acid-producing 
effect, is all that is required. 
CLAY or SANDY SOIL add cow manure. 
PLANTING—Both roots and top should be pruned at time of 
planting—the neglect of this causes the loss of an immense number 
of trees. When taken from the nursery, the roots are more or less 
mutilated, therefore the balance of the tree must be restored by 
cutting off a portion of the side and top branches. 
First, before the tree is set in the ground, smoothen the 
broken or bruised end of the root with a sharp knife in a slanting 
direction, on the underside; this will cause the wound to heal 
over readily, by throwing out plenty of fibrous roots at the end. 
Do as little root pruning as possible at planting time. The largest 
possible absorbing area is needed to get the water and nutrients 
into the tree so that it will get off to a good start. 
Use good top soil for filling in the bottom of the hole and 
around the roots, where it does most good. The tree should be 
perpendicular or lean slightly towards the wind; this makes it grow 
stiaight. Arrange the roots in their natural position. Then fill in 
fine mellow soil, working it thoroughly in among all the roots 
with the hand so that no air pockets remain. The filling soil should 
be dry rather than wet so that the soil will sift into the crannies. 
When the roots are barely covered, sprinkle on a half bucket of 
water to moisten the soil and settle it among the roots. Then fill 
soil to top and press down the earth around the tree with the 
foot—then pour a bucket of water to help settle the tree in the 
ground. But the soil on the surface should be left loose to prevent 
evaporation. The application of water before the top soil is applied 
is useful but not always necessary. It is a good idea to leave a 
slight dish effect to collect water from the spring rains. A covering 
of coarse manure, straw, marsh, or hay, during the first season will 
effectually prevent injury from drought and is a benefit at all times. 
Avoid overwatering as roots will drown. Apply as much water as 
the ground will absorb and not any more. Water trees once a day 
during the first week to give the trees a good start if the soil is 
not frozen. 
DEPTH TO PLANT—AII fruit trees should be planted with 
the graft one inch above the surface. The graft is the joining union 
between the trunk’s base and root system. It is easily recognized 
by its onion-like shape. Some grafts are large, while others are 
hard to detect. It is of minor importance if you cannot locate the 
graft. The graft is emphasized to indicate how deep the tree 
should be planted, since most amateurs bury the trunk and the tree 
dies. The apple is the only variety whose graft must be planted 
above the ground level to prevent new roots from developing above 
the union and destroying the dwarfing influence. If the graft is 
buried, roots will form above the graft and the tree will develop. 
into its original standard form. 
[ 38 } 
