After Pruning of Dwarf 
Fruit Trees 
Pruning is an art, definitely associated with confining the trees 
to limited sizes—adapt them to various patterns—culture them 
for economic purposes such as fruit or flower production—stimu- 
late and encourage the growth of new branches or young productive 
spurs—reduce the tendency of alternate bearing—to aid them in 
returning to a natural habit—etc. 
Pruning requires the understanding of a few basic principles, 
a bit of common sense, sharp tools and the realization that a tree 
is a living thing that will do its best if given half a chance. 
Pruning should consist of thinning out weak wood especially 
in the top and lower branches; removal of dead, broken and 
diseased branches; stopp:ng slender outside shoots; cutting out the 
least desirable of two crossing or closely parallel branches. The 
amount and type of pruning necessary will vary with the age, 
rate of growth, type of tree, as well as the former pattern of 
pruning, 
To develop bearing spurs on the branches the most important 
thing to have in mind when pruning is to expose as much as 
possible, every part of a branch to the sun. Thinning out is the 
principle to follow when the crown is too dense. Cutting back 
is advisable when one branch becomes too long—give the tree a 
pleasant, symmertical shape. 
Prune back such side branches that will give additional branches 
if the crown is sparse. 
Old trees which are poorly fed may be invigorated by pruning 
and feed:ng. In general, give the tree a well-balanced crown by 
discarding unproportioned branches or shoots. The best time to 
prune is just before the sap begins to run, early in spring. This 
pruning develops out their framework, rather than form suckeis. 
Avoid pruning when the trees are frozen to prevent splitting or 
breaking of branches and fruit spurs. 
All cuts should be made so there will be a good leaf-bearing 
tissue beyond the cut. They should be made as closely as poss ble 
to the limb or branch to which the part removed is attached to 
encourage adequate healing. Long stubs never should be left as 
the wound cannot heal. In t’pping back twigs or limbs cut just 
barely above a side branch or bud so the wound will heal quickly. 
Dead stubs collect moisture and set up rot which likely will 
penetrate live tissues and do damage. We recommend sharp instru- 
ments and smooth cuts. Trees which have been properly pruned 
each season seldom require removal of large limbs. Wounds from 
1 to 1'/p inches in diameter rarely develop decay. Larger wounds 
should be painted over with the antiseptic pruning paint to 
prevent infection. 
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