JAPANESE IRIS will not tolerate lime so if ericaceous plants such as azaleas and rhododendrons 
thrive in your locality then these iris should thrive also. They require heavily enriched soil 
and abundant moisture during the spring until the blooming season in order to obtain maximum 
size flowers. 
After blooming no extra care is required. If your soil is alkaline then the application of aluminum 
sulphate or the addition of considerable peat moss or oak leaf mold is necessary to produce the 
proper soil. These iris are not bog plants but enjoy a position where their roots can reach the 
water, such as the banks of streams or ponds. In arid regions where the humidity is low during 
their period of growth much more water is required than in such regions as the Pacific and 
South Atlantic coastal areas. These iris should be planted so that the crowns are about 2 inches 
below the surface. Their spectacular beauty fully justifies any extra effort necessary to have 
them bear their magnificent flowers when all other iris are past blooming. Always remember 
that lime in any form is fatal to this group. 
SIBERIAN AND SPURIA IRIS will grow and bloom in almost any soil that suits other perennial 
flowers. However, they are moisture lovers and will grow twice as high and produce twice as 
many flowers if kept constantly moist during their growing season. As they are most effective 
in large clumps they should be planted where they need not be disturbed. All are very hardy 
and should give no trouble anywhere. 
MISCELLANEOUS IRIS SPECIES require no special treatment with the possible exception 
of the western native species which do not like lime but will tolerate a small amount provided 
other conditions are favorable. Our Oregon native iris do well here in full sun but where hot 
dry summers prevail afternoon shade at least is advisable. In hard clay or light sandy soils the 
addition of leaf mold or peat moss may be helpful. Where zero temperatures occur without snow, 
a winter mulch is necessary as these natives, |. japonica and |. stylosa, are not reliably hardy 
under such conditions. Although excessive moisture is not necessary these iris should not be 
allowed to dry out during the warmest weather. The species, chrysographes, delavayi and for- 
restii, like full sun but must be kept quite moist during the summer months. The species, 
douglasiana, gracilipes, graminea, japonica and innominata thrive and bloom well in heavy 
shade. |. hyacinthiana and missouriensis are extremely hardy and drouth resistant so should 
thrive in the coldest localities. 
HEMEROCALLIS will grow and bloom in almost any soil and in all parts of the country. They 
will bloom in full shade or sun but are at their best with afternoon shade as the very hot sun 
will fade the flowers somewhat. They are truly a lazy man’s flower because once planted they 
will take care of themselves. 
THE LILIES offered in this catalogue are all of easiest culture and very disease resistant with 
the exception of Sargentiae which is susceptible to mosaic. However, by planting Sargentiae 
away from the other lilies it can be as permanent as any. Plant the bulbs about 6 inches deep in 
loam or clay soils, a little deeper in light sandy soil. Always bear in mind that sharp drainage 
is the most essential requirement for the successful growing of the lilies we offer. All will 
bloom in shade but the strongest plants and most flowers are obtained when planted in full 
sun. During very hot weather afternoon shade will prolong the life of the blooms. All are quite 
hardy and require about the same moisture as the other perennials in your garden. 
TRITOMAS are SUN lovers so don’t try growing them in the shade. Like the Hemerocallis they 
will thrive in any soil and are quite drouth resistant. In mild climates they are evergreen which 
makes them ornamental the year around. For the colder sections of the country spring planting 
is recommended. 
COLCHICUMS like other bulbs become dormant during summer months and are extraordinary 
in that the foliage is produced in spring but the flowers do not appear until fall. Plant the bulbs 
about 4 inches deep in any good garden soil where they may be left alone for years if desired. 
Heaviest bloom is produced in full sun, though we do get fair results here in one-half to full 
shade. If wanted in the rock garden do not plant them too near their neighbors as the leaves 
take up considerable space in spring. 
CHRYSANTHEMUMS develop into the best plants and bear the finest flowers from rooted cut- 
tings started in spring. Of course, undivided clumps will bloom from year to year but the foliage 
and flowers will be vastly inferior. They like good rich soil and abundant water during the dry 
weather. A mixture of sand, leaf mold and rotted manure is ideal but any fertile friable soil 
slightly acid is very satisfactory. Good drainage is imperative as they often winter kill in poorly 
drained heavy clay soils, but they will endure zero temperatures if the proper soil and drainage 
are provided. All chrysanthemums bear larger flowers if disbudded. However, with the excep- 
tion of the incurved varieties, disbudding is not essential as they are just as effective in sprays 
either in the garden or in bouquets. 
FERTILIZERS. We may be old fashioned but we still believe that well rotted manure (cow, 
horse, sheep or chicken litter) is about the best obtainable because in addition to feeding the 
plant it improves the soil condition. And if you use properly prepared compost then you are one 
jump ahead of most gardeners. 
aah 
SWEENEY, KRIST & DIMM, HORTICULTURAL PRINTERS, PORTLAND, ORE. 
