OUR MUM COLLECTION 
Our collection of Hardy Garden Chrysanthemums is the most 
up-to-date and modern in the country. We are now growing and 
testing over 500 distinct varieties. We have all the worthwhile new 
varieties produced by the best originators in the land. These include 
all introduced by Prof. L. E. Longley of the University of Minnesota, 
the Chicago Strain, those originated by the U. S. Department of 
Agriculture, the new English varieties imported from Canada, Bris- 
tol’s newest creations, and the better things from other growers. 
CULTURE 
Hardy Garden Mums are among the easiest of all hardy plants to 
grow. They will tolerate almost endless neglect and still survive and 
give some bloom. To have them at their best, give them good culture, 
a sunny location, a rich soil, and do not Jet them suffer for want of 
moisture during the hot summer. 
Mums in the garden should be planted in an open, sunny location 
and should not be shaded by buildings, large shrubs or trees for more 
than three or four hours per day. Any fairly rich soil, be it sandy, 
clay or loam, that will grow other flowers and vegetables well, will 
also grow good Mums. Peat moss, leaf mold or barnyard manure 
peo into the soil is an excellent conditioner and much to their 
iking. 
PLANTING 
Spring is by far the best planting season. The proper planting 
time is when the spring garden work is well under way and the heavy, 
ice-freezing frosts are past. Planting can begin about the time early 
tulips begin to bloom and can be continued until peonies are in 
bloom. Here in southern Minnesota this would be from about Jate 
April until mid-June. Farther south this date would be advanced 
according to the climate. This gives the plants until fall to develop 
a good root system and enough top to give abundant bloom. Well- 
started plants grown in 214-inch pots and planted with a ball of 
earth around the roots are the most satisfactory. One-year-old, 
field-grown clumps seldom give satisfactory results, for they are hard 
to handle and there are usually not enough roots to support the 
many shoots that spring up. In replanting old clumps, always divide 
them into individual shoots. Those from the outside of the clump 
are the strongest and should be retained; discard the old stumpy 
center crown. Field-grown divisions packed with moss about the 
roots are often offered; these will usually grow but seldom give a 
good account of themselves. 
SUMMER CARE 
Good culture during the summer, with regular Ioosening up of the 
soil about the plants to maintain a constant supply of moisture, to 
aerate the ground, and to keep weeds from becoming established, is 
all that is necessary to grow good Mums. One or two applications of 
a well-balanced commercial fertilizer are beneficial but not absolutely 
necessary. Roughly, about a small handful of commercial fertilizer 
per plant at about one-month intervals is sufficient. The first applica- 
tion can be made in Iate July or early August. This highly con- 
centrated fertilizer should not be used when the soil is dry, because 
foliage and root burn will result. Be sure that plenty of moisture is 
available at time of application. 
WATERING 
The best way to water Mums is to make a saucer-like depression 
about the plant, Jay the hose on the ground, and Iet the water run 
slowly. The following day the soil can be Ioosened up and leveled 
again. A thorough watering like this should be sufficient for a week 
or ten days, even during the hottest and driest weather. Sprinkling 
the plants from overhead should be discouraged, for that invites 
foliage diseases. By keeping the foliage of Mums as dry as possible, 
spraying should not be necessary in order to grow a good crop of 
owers. 
OUR SURE-TO-BLOOM PLANTS 
We believe our sure-to-bloom plants, grown from virgin cuttings, 
well established in 214-inch pots and sent to you with a ball of good 
soil about the roots are the most practical and economical to buy. 
These potted plants set out as late as early July will, with good 
care during the heat of summer, make fine blooming plants by 
October. We have hundreds of letters in our files from nearly every 
state in the country telling us how well our plants have done in all 
sections. Many of these plants were shipped over 2000 miles and 
still did remarkably well. 

PINCHING 
To have sturdy and well-branched plants it is advisable to pinch 
the terminal shoots once or twice during the season. This operation 
is done with the thumb and forefinger and consists of removing about 
V6 inch of the soft growing tip of the main shoots. The first pinching 
should be done when the plants are about 6 inches tall, to induce 
lateral branches. When these lateral branches are 8 to 10 inches tall, 
their tips should be removed to induce more branches. Discontinue 
pinching by August 1, as the plants will soon be forming buds. The 
very early-blooming varieties should not be pinched after July 15. 
A well-pinched plant will not need staking or other support, since 
the growth will be strong and sturdy and will stand erect. 
GROWING LATE-BLOOMING VARIETIES 
IN THE NORTH 
In the far North it is almost impossible to grow and flower the 
Iate-blooming kinds in the garden, because heavy October frosts 
usually spoil them when in bud. These varieties can easily be en- 
joyed in the North by digging them up just before hard frosts and 
planting them in a box or Jarge flower pot. If they are shaded a few 
days and watered freely, they can be brought into the house or en- 
closed porch and will be in full bloom for 2 month or more. Mums 
are about the only plants we are familiar with, that can be dug from 
the garden in full bud and bloom, and brought into the house without 
any noticeable check in growth. 
If you find that the color combination of the garden should be 
changed at blooming time, or you would like a plant in another Ioca- 
tion, just dig it up carefully, leaving as much soil about the roots as 
possible, and transfer it to the desired location. It will keep right on 
growing if water is applied freely. Or, try growing some plants in the 
vegetable or service garden during the summer. In the fall they can 
be transplanted to spots left vacant by early annuals. 
BLOOMING TIME 
It has been definitely proved that Chrysanthemums are sensitive 
to light and that the length of day determines the blooming time for a 
given variety. Shading a late-blooming variety with black cloth for a 
few hours, both morning and evening, will hasten its normal bloom- 
ing time by two or three weeks. Electric lights will retard its normal 
blooming period. 
Since Minnesota is quite far north, where naturally the fall days 
are shorter than farther south, a given variety will normally bloom 
20 days earlier here than in Texas. We are located approximately 
200 miles north of Chicago, and we know that the same variety will 
begin blooming for us four or five days sooner than in Chicago. 
From this we deduct that perhaps two days for every 100 miles of 
latitude is about the average difference in blooming time. Interest- 
ing, isn’t it? 

