The addition of about 100 lbs. of sup- 
erphosphate to each ton of manure 
will increase the value of both. Ac- 
cording to the latest information, the 
best Commercial fertilizer for Utah 
is a 4-16-4 mixture; that is, 4% 
Nitrogen, 16% Phosphorous and 4% 
Potash or mixtures of similar pro- 
portions, applied as a side dressing 
after the plants are up and immedi- 
ately followed by an irrigation. Suc- 
cessive applications may be applied 
with good results, providing plants 
are well watered after each applica- 
tion. Apply 2 to 4 pounds per 100 
feet of row. If more than two appli- 
cations are used, less fertilizer per 
application is needed. NOTE: Do not 
let manure or other fertilizer come 
in direct contact with the bulb or 
plant, as serious injury will result. 
SPRAYING 
If allowed to, thrips may attack 
glads at any stage, in storage or in the 
field, so it is well to spray or dust the 
young plants as soon as they are uv 
six to eight inches high and every two 
weeks thereafter until they bloom, as 
a preventative measure. If thrips 
are definitely present, spray every 
week. 
Spray Formula: 
D.D.T. wetable dust as per durec- 
tions, or 212% to 5% D.D.T. dusting 
powder. 
DIGGING AND CURING 
Six to eight weeks after the bulbs 
are through blooming, they should be 
ready for digging. Most varieties can 
be left longer but should be dug while 
there is still some green in the foliage 
as dormant bulbs have little or no 
resistance to disease or insect attack 
if left in the ground after growth 
stops. The little bulblets drop loose 
from the mother bulb as it ripens, thus 
making these much more difficult to 
harvest if the bulbs are left too long. It 
is also much easier to harvest the 
bulbs if the tops are green enough to 
insure their having strength to lift the 
bulbs from the ground as they are 
loosened with a shovel or spading 
fork. Cut off tops close to the bulbs 
and place in trays or other contain- 
ers. Do not pile them more than two 
or three bulbs deep and place tnem 
in a warm airy place where they will 
be protected from storm and frost 
until they are dry. If conditions are 
right, they should dry in two to four 
weeks. It is now time to clean the 
old roots and mummified bulb from 
last year off the new bulb. If clean- 
ing is done at the right time it is much 
easier than if attempted too soon or 
late. It is best to burn this discarded 
material as well as the tops, as they 
are sources of thrips and other infes- 
tations if left on the ground. As soon 
as the bulbs are cleaned they are 
ready for winter storage. 
CARE OF BLOOMS 
As cut flowers, glads are supreme. 
Cut them when one or two florets ure 
open, use a sharp knife slipping the 
blade down the sides of the stem to 
loosen the foliage if long stems are 
desired, then a turn of the wrist and 
a little pressure will sever the stem 
and leave the leaves with the bulb 
which is so necessary to produce a 
large healthy bulb for the next year. 
At least five leaves must remain on 
the bulb to insure its continued 
growth. As soon as possible after the 
flowers are cut place them in a deep, 
clean container of cold water. Each 
day change the water, cut about one 
inch off the stem and remove any 
wilted florets. Treated this way glads 
will be attractive for ten days to two 
weeks. 
If left in the field, remove the wilt- 
ed florets each day and cut out the 
flower head or spike when through 
blooming; this will cause the plant 
to put all its effort toward making a 
better bulb. 
(43) 
