

How Green Ja Your Lawn: 
7 
HERE ARE THE 4 ESSENTIALS 
GOOD SOIL — GOOD FOOD — GOOD SEED — GOOD CARE 
A lawn in the old-days was that area surrounding the home, regardless of what grew there. 
Today the good lawn 
is green the year-round, free from weeds and a thing of beauty, giving the home a proper setting. A good lawn not only 
makes the home more livable but increases the value of the property. 
When the lawn is analyzed it is found to be masses of living plants, which of course must be treated as living things, 
fed and cared for. 
bad and we become ashamed of them. 
turf from the beginning. 
Too many of us take our lawns for granted, paying little or no attention to them until they begin to look 
It is more costly and takes more effort to correct a poor lawn than to build a good 
All lawns must have a beginning, therefore let us go into the building of the lawn and perhaps you may see just what 
part of the program was left out in the building of your lawn and know what is best to do about it now. Regardless how poor 
your lawn may look now it can be made healthy and green again. 
GOOD SOIL 
As the grass plants grow in soil a good soil is the first im- 
portant step in building a new lawn. The ideal lawn soil 
is not a stiff clay, neither is it a loose sandy type. The texture 
of an ideal soil is loam. Sandy soils are bettered by the addi- 
tion of dry pulverized clay, while stiff clay soils are improved 
by a mixture of sand and humus materials. The humus con- 
tent of the soil is an important factor in maintaining the 
fertility. Organic matter performs the functions of increasing 
water holding capacity, of bettering aeration and furnishing 
the necessary friendly bacteria, which in turn aids in making 
the various nutrients available to the plants. Organic matter 
also furnishes many of the nutrients and assists in proper 
drainage. 
It is very important to have the lawn well drained as grass 
will not thrive on soggy, poorly drained soil. Drainage per- 
mits fresh air to penetrate the soil. Grading should be away 
from the. house avoiding low places and terraces - wherever 
possible. 
The building operations of a new house usually leave a 
very, poor soil on which to build a lawn. A fine turf cannot 
be raised on excavated clay or subsoil. If the grading will 
not permit the addition of good top soil, remove 3 to 6 inches 
of the clay and replace with good soil. Never cover good top 
soil with earth excavated from basements. 
If you have no top soil or good garden soil at your disposal 
then for the organic or humus content, use Peat Moss which 
keeps the soil from packing and help give it the proper tex- 
ture. One bale of Peat Moss should be spread over from 100 
to 250 sq. ft., depending on the condition of the soil. Disc or 
dig the Peat Moss at least 4 to 6 inches into and through the 
soil. 
GOOD FOOD 
After working in the Peat Moss and before breaking up or 
pulverizing the clods broadcast B-B GROWER (the complete 
plant food) at the rate of 10 lbs. to each 100 sq. ft. (10x10) 
raking it in to a depth of 3 to 4 inches. Working this plant 
food into the soil before sowing the seed attracts the roots of 
the new grass plants deep into the ground thus establishing 
the proper root system. A deep root system enables the plant 
to withstand more hot, dry weather and prevents loss from 
the lifting action of freezing and thawing during the Winter. 
B-B Grower is a blended combination of quick acting com- 
mercial plant foods, slow acting natural plant foods and humus. 
Therefore it is not a plant stimulant. but a balanced diet pro- 
viding necessary nutrition for a healthy growth over several 
months. 
Blue-grass will grow better when Bunton’s Lawn Lime is 
worked into the soil along with the plant food. Most soils 
because of an acid condition require this limestone dust. Work 
in 50 Ibs. to each 500 sq. ft. (10x50). Rake and cross rake 
until the upper inch in which the young plants will get their 
start is level, and smooth. This prevents the escape of moisture 
and promotes quicker germination of the seed to be sown, 
[A] 
GOOD SEED 
In selecting the seed, remember the higher the purity and 
germination the better the grass that grows from it. A lawn 
can be no better than the seed from which it grows. The best 
combination of grasses to produce a fine lawn in this section 
are Kentucky Blue-grass, Red Top, Bent Grass and White 
Dutch Clover. Kentucky Blue-grass is naturally the most de- 
pendable grass for this locality because with a little attention 
it is more permanent than any other and will stand more 
abuse. Red Top is combined to act as a nurse crop for the 
Blue-grass and it has more life during the extreme hot weather. 
Bent Grass will stand closer cutting than Blue-grass and helps 
to establish a heavy turf. A small percentage of White Dutch 
Clover is added as it is desirable in most all lawns. The 
proper blend of these in their highest purity and germination 
composes our Bunton’s Best Lawn Seed. 
Sow Bunton’s Best Lawn Seed at the rate of 1 lb. to each 300 
sq. ft. (10x30) or 150 lbs. per acre. The best method of sowing is 
with a distributor. If sown by hand, be sure there is no 
wind. Sowing by hand can be done better if the seed is 
divided into two equal parts, one part being sown North and 
South, the other East and West, keeping the hand close to the 
ground. A thick stand of grass chokes out the weeds, while a 
thin stand gives them an opportunity to establish themselves. 
It does not pay to sow sparingly. 
After the seed has been sown, rake lightly to slightly cover, 
then roll or tamp to firm the soil and promote germination. 
The seed must be kept moist, using a fine mist daily until 
germination has taken place. After this about two or three 
good waterings a week is sufficient until the lawn is estabe 
lished. When the lawn has become established do not water 
more than once a week regardless of how hot it may be. 
GOOD CARE 
New grass plants should not be allowed ito grow over 4 or 5 
inches high before mowing. Don’t attempt this with a dull 
mower as it will pull young plants out by the roots. Mowing 
at this height allows the lower part of the grass blades to 
have the necessary air and sunlight. Mowing too close kills 
Blue-grass and permits Crabb Grass to overtake the lawn. 
Few gardeners or farmers would plant a crop today without 
fertilizing and cultivating it, yet we sometimes just take our 
lawns for granted when they really should be fertilized and 
cultivated. Yes, lawns can and should be cultivated, this culti- 
vation allows air, moisture, plant food and humus to enter 
into the soil as it should. Cultivating or spiking the lawn 
develops a deep and extensive root system. Hard spots or 
terraces which turn brown usually need spiking to hold mois- 
ture. Lawns with stiff soils should be spiked when _ top- 
dressing with fertilizer or humus and reseeding. There are 
several different methods. 
To keep the lawn healthy and green B-B Grower should be 
applied each Spring and Fall at the rate of 5 lbs. to each 
200 sq. ft. (10x20), 500 lbs. per acre. A liberal application of 
Bunton’s Lawn Lime is beneficial each Spring and Fall along 
with the plant food. For best results spike these into the soil. 
As many grass plants are lost from Winter freezés and hot 
weather in Summer, reseed each Spring (preferably February 
or March) and Fall (September is ideal.) For reseeding sow 
Bunton’s Best Kentucky Blue-grass at the rate of 1 lb. to 300 to 
500 sq. ft. Where quick growth is desired on large bare spots, 
sow Bunton’s Best Lawn Seed at the rate of 1 lb. to each 300 
a ft., following the previous instructions for building a new 
awn. 
