
RADISH, Continued 
Early Scarlet Turnip, White Tipped— 
Carmine red with white tip. Flesh white, 
crisp and mild. 26 days. 
French Breakfast—Roots thicker toward 
bottom. 1Y¥2-in. long by % to %-in. 
Dull scarlet, white tipped. 25 days. 
White Icicle—Tapering roots 5 to 5'%- 
in., very white with pure white, mild 
flesh. 27 days. 
Fall 
Chinese Rose Winter or Scarlet China— 
Popular, very distinct winter sort. 
Good for late salads. Cylindrical blunt, 
smooth, bright rose-red. Flesh white, 
very firm and pungent. 52 days. 
and Winter Varieties 
Long Black Spanish — Good keeping 
winter variety. White, crisp and pun- 
gent. 8 to 9 in. long. 58 days. 

EARLY WHITE BUSH SCALLOP 
RUTABAGA 
(See Turnip) 
SALSIFY 
Light, rich soil best and it must be 
stirred to a considerable depth. Sow 
in rows 18” apart. Cover seeds firmly ~ 
with Ve” of fine soil and thin plants 
later to 2” to 3” apart in the row. 
Cultivate the same as carrots. 
Mammoth Sandwich Island—A _ palat- 
able and nutritious vegetable when 
cooked. Flavor is remarkably similar to 
oysters. 120 days. 
SPINACH 
Plant seed in very rich soil in rows 
spaced 14” to 18” apart. Keep plants 
thinned out from 3” to 6’’ apart in the 
row. (Seed may also be sown broad- 
cast.) Sown in fall for winter use and 
spring for early use. 
Bloomsdale Savoy, Long Standing (fr)— 
A few days later than regular Blooms- 
dale Savoy. Holds from 12 to 14 days 
longer. 42 days. 
Giant Nobel or Giant Thick Leaf— 
Large, vigorous, spreading plant, slow 
to form seed stalks. Heavy yielder. 
Large, thick, smooth leaves. 45 days. 
New Zealand—Thrives in dry, hot 
weather. Can be picked repeatedly all 
season. Not a true spinach, but similar 
when cooked. 70 days. 
10¢ PER PACKET 
UNLESS OTHERWISE NOTED 

Viroflay — Very large, broad _ thick 
leaves, slightly crumpled. Old standard 
variety suitable for spring or fall sow- 
ing. Good for canning. 46 days. 
SQUASH 
Very sensitive to cold so delay plant- 
ing until warm weather. Follow same 
care in planting and culture as for 
cucumbers and melons. Plant sum- 
mer varieties 6 or 8 seeds in hills 3/ 
to 4’ apart each way and winter 
squash 8’ apart. Plants bear longer if 
squash is picked off as soon as it is 
ready for use. 
Summer Varieties 
Early Prolific Straightneck (fr)—Earlier, 
smaller, and more productive than Giant 
Summer Straightneck, and more uni- 
form. Brilliant yellow. Fine for home or 
market. 50 days. 
Early White Bush Scallop—Fruits green- 
ish when young, become white at ma- 
turity. 3-in. long, 7¥2 to 8%-in. wide. 
93 days. 
Giant Summer Crookneck—Prolific, bush 
type plant, curved neck fruits around 
4 to 5-lb., 20 to 24-in. long. 4 to 5-in. 
diameter. 56 days. 
Zucchini—Straight, cylindrical fruits, 3 
to 4 lb., 5 to S-in. through, 10 to 14-in. 
long. Mottled and striped green-creamy- 
gray. Delicate flavored flesh. 60 days. 
Fall and Winter Varieties 
Improved Green Hubbard (fr)—Most 
widely grown of any winter squash. 
Round, warted, dark green with thick 
yellow flesh. Weight 12 to 14 lbs. 100 
days. 
Table Queen or Des Moines (fr) — 
Acorn-shaped, green, deeply furrowed; 
flesh rich yellow, dry, mealy, delicious. 
Convenient size for baking and serving 
in halves. 100 days. 
SWISS CHARD (See Beets, Leaf) 

THERE IS2NO;SUBSTITUTE 
FOR GARDEN FRESH 
i VEGETABLES 
shee 




The Old Gardener on TOMATOES 
Tomatoes are the Number One crop in 
home gardens, raised by almost every- 
body. For’ some good information on 
how to grow them, see Vegetable Seed 
Culture. 
If you had trouble with disease, as so 
many folks did last year, try some 
of the newer disease-resistant kinds 
like Marglobe, Pritchard, and Rutgers. 
Even folks who don't like tomatoes 
ordinarily will go for Jubilee, the big 
orange variety that looks just like a 
California orange. It’s as mild in flavor 
as an apple and full of natural sugar. 
Try slicing it on the same plate as the 
red varieties. 
To stake or not to stake is often a 
question. If you do insist upon staking, 
don’t use Earliana or Pritchard, since 
ee eee reer reece errr 

TOMATOES 
Do best in sandy, well pulverized 
loam. Sow seed in hotbed or indoors. 
When plants are about 2” high, set 
out, 3” apart, in boxes or pots—later 
transplant into the garden. Or keep 
in flats until all danger of frost is past, 
and then set plants out directly into 
the garden. Water around the roots of 
the plants when setting them out, if 
ground is dry. Cultivate frequently 
until plants shade the ground. Remove 
all but the two or three strongest 
branches. Study methods of staking 
and training vines and adopt the one 
best suited to your situation. 
Earliana— Open, spreading, medium 
small vines. Red fruits run to medium 
size. This seed is selected for thick, 
smooth fruit. 66 days. 
Jubilee — Orange colored fruit. Juicy 
with few seeds. Weighs about 6 oz. 
Bears over a long season. 72 days. 
Marglobe—Moderately productive, with 
heavy foliage. Vigorous and resistant 
to wilt and rust. Fruits medium large, 
nearly round, smooth, and solid. Deep 
red, 77 days. 
Ponderosa—One of the largest varieties. 
Spreading large vines. Solid, fine fla- 
vored, pink, with small seed cells. 
Somewhat rough and flat. Have a ten- 
dency to crack. 88 days. 
Pan America, New Wilt Resistant— 
Newly developed by the U. S. Dept. of 
Agriculture. Deep scarlet, heavy and 
firm. Evenly shaped. Resistant to Fu- 
sarium wilt; nailhead rust. 75 days. 
Pritchard's, Scarlet Topper—Medium to 
large, round, with thick, firm flesh and 
small seed cavities. Brilliant red 
throughout, coloring right to top, with- 
out hard green spots. Free from acidity, 
one of the best home canners. Early. 
Rutgers—Second early variety. Large 
thick stems, vigorous foliage. Fruits 
similar to Marglobe but flatter at stem 
end. Bright red, with thick walls. Red, 
firm flesh, low acidity. 72 days. 
Stone Improved — Medium late. De- 
servedly popular with canners and 
market gardeners. Ripens evenly and 
is uniform. Fruits large, flattened, but 
deep. Smooth, attractive, scarlet-red, of 
fine flavor. 86 days. 
Continued on Page 22 


they won't make 
enough vine for 
this method of 
training. 
Above all, if you 
do grow early 
varieties, be sure ' 
to add one of the heavy producing 
main crop sorts like Rutgers so you'll 
have plenty of tomatoes for canning 
and for use when the early varieties 
are through. 
Feeding: The safest plan for feeding 
tomato plants is to use balanced plant 
food. Apply it as a side dressing at 
regular intervals. Don't use poultry 
manures. They cause a long, sappy 
plant growth, with very little fruit. If 
any animal fertilizers are used, they 
need balancing—by addition of super- 
phosphate and muriate of potash. With- 
out these necessary elements, the crop 
may be poor. 


\ 

2) 


pire! 
