
When branches have reached a height of 
1144 to 2 feet, two strong stakes, 4 to 6 feet 
long (depending on height of the dahlia), should 
be driven in about a foot away from the plant, 
one on each side. ‘Tie up loosely with har- 
vesting twine or soft materials by wrapping 
once around the stakes and tying a loop and 
bow knot. As plant grows bow can be un- 
tied and twine raised up on stakes. 
One can easiely overwater, when plants are 
young, but you cannot over cultivate at this 
stage of their growth. However, whenever you 
do water, soak the beds throughly. It is far 
better to give a dahlia seven buckets of water 
in one day, than 1 a day for 7 days. Always 
cultivate surface as soon after as dry enough. 
Dahlias like plenty of water when in bloom but 
can’t stand ‘wet feet’. How is your drainage? 
To have the greatest of success is to keep 
them growing, but as strong and sturdy as 
possible. You will get few, if any, blooms (and 
inferior) from hardened or stunted growth. 
When buds appear, stop all deep cultivation 
and give the beds a mulch of manure, leaves, 
grass clippings, etc. If sufficient mulching is 
not available, make a shallow basin around 
each plant, and fill well with mulching. After 
two or three weeks, a little additional fertiliz- 
er may be put on every ten days, or so. Feed- 
ing in liquid form is best in most cases, but 
use caution—don’t give too much at one time. 
If you want larger Dahlias of greater sub- 
stance and longer, stronger stems — disbud. 
When the size of peas, pinch off all buds in a 
cluster except the largest, unless it is deformed. 
To make your dahlias healthier looking and 
also to hold insects in check, give your bush- 
es a shower bath every evening, during the dry 
hot weather. They will greatly appreciate it. 
A few days after the tops have been black- 
ened by a heavy frost, late in the Fall, cut 
them off and dig carefully so as not to break 
the necks of tubers. Remove most of the soil, 
but not necessarily all of it. When possible, dig 
on a sunny day, allowing clumps to dry off 
before storing, cutting off the remaining hol- 
low stalk as close to tubers as youcan. If 
troubled with wet stem rot, turn clumps upside 
down or, split stalk and clump in halves. An 
old-fashioned or potato celler is ideal for dah- 
lias. If in a heated basement, put them in the 
coolest corner, on the floor or in a large box. 
If there are signs of shriveling, cover more or 
less with slightly moist earth, sand etc. 
In the spring when the tubers commence to 
sprout, the clumps should be divided with a 
sharp knife into divisions of single tubers or 
more, with one strong eye or sprout to each. 
