ONION PLANTS 
Sturdy, hardy plants that come to you 
all ready to set out. Ask for prices. 
ONION SETS 
Onion sets used instead of seeds will 
produce earlier crops of green onions 
or large bulbs. Plant sets right side 
up and cover with garden rake; then 
firm the soil well over the sets. 
The quickest way to get onions early. 
We offer choice, select, dry sets, of the 
highest quality. (Prices on application.) 
RED WHITE YELLOW 
PARSLEY 
Does best in rich, mellow loam. Seed 
is slow to germinate, and is helped 
by soaking in warm water over night 
before planting, Sow early and not 
too deeply. When curled varieties are 
about 3” tall, cut off leaves, The new 
growth will be brighter and curlier. 
Moss Curled or Triple Curled—Com- 
pact, dark green leaves, curled and fine- 
cut, 70 days. 
PARSNIP 
Plant in rich, sandy loam, thoroughly 
pulverized, Seed requires plenty of 
moisture for germination and should be 
sown early. Dig after a killing frost. 
Freezing improves parsnips, so some 
can be left in the ground all winter 
and used in spring. For storage, bury 
in dry sand, 
Hollow Crown (fr)—The most generally 
grown kind. Roots 2¥2 to 3-in, thick at 
shoulder, 12 to 14-in. long, uniformly 
tapered, hollow crowned. 95 days. 
PEAS 
Early peas need a light, warm soil; 
but general crop thrives best in ‘mod- 
erately heavy soil. (Avoid fresh ma- 
nure and very rich or wet, mucky soil 
as this produces large growth of vine 
at the cost of quality of the peas.) 
Plant seed in rows at 2” depth, Keep 
rows 21" to 28” apart for dwarf va- 
rieties and 28” to 42” for the taller 
types. Gather crop as fast as it is fit 
to use or new pods will cease to form 
and continue growth. 
Early and Second Variety 
Alaska—Wilt resistant. Used for can- 
ning and early home garden. Blunt, 
straight, light-green, 3-in. pods Plants 
32-in. 60 days. 
Laxton’s Progress (frs—Medium dark 
green vine, 16 to 18-in. Single pods 
almost an inch wide and 4% to 5-in. 
long with 7 to 9 large peas, 62 days. 
Little Marvel (fr)—Outstanding, dwarf. 
Fine quality, large yield. Single and 
double, dark green, 3-in. pods—blunt, 
plump, well filled with 7 to 8 medium 
sized, light green tender peas. 62 days. 
Thomas Laxton (fr)—Medium height. 
Strong vine bears numerous dark green, 
blunt ended pods, 4 to 4'%-in. Retains 
flavor and sweetness. One of earliest. 
97 days. 
Later Varieties 
Alderman or Dark-Podded Telephone 
(fr)—Large podded variety of the Tele- 
phone family. Excellent for home gar- 
dens, truckers, shipping to distant mar- 
kets and for freezing; resistant to 
Fusarium wilt, Vine dark green, coarse. 
Pods single very broad, plump, 
straight, dark green, pointed; contains 
8 to 10 peas of highest quality. Seed 
large, wrinkled, light green. 74 days. 
Hundredfold or Laxtonian—Exception- 
ally choice and prolific. Dark green. 
Rather coarse vines. Straight pointed, 
well-filled 242” pods, 62 days. 
Edible Podded or Sugar 
Mammoth Melting Sugar—Wilt resist- 
ant. Coarse light-green vine, 54-in. 
Single 4'%-in. pods, broad, indented, 
light, blunt, stringless, without fiber, 
fleshy. Contains 7 peas. Seed large 
round, creamy-white, 74 days. 
PEPPERS 
Warm, mellow soil in sheltered loca- 
tion is best. Start under glass. Culti- 
vate regularly, drawing soil up around 
stems. When plants are 7” to 8” tall, 
hoe in light dressing of commercial 
fertiizer. Do not plant hot peppers 
near sweet; they are apt to cross. 
Sweet 
California Wonder Improved—Number 
one quality peppers, about 4-in. long 
and 3'2-in. diameter, very smooth, 3 
and 4 lobed, glossy green, turning 
bright crimson when ripe. Remarkably 
thick walls, tender, sweet. 75 days. 
Pimento or Perfection—Best of the medi- 
um sized sweet peppers. Excellent for 
stuffing. Smooth, heart-shaped, about 
3-in. long. 125 days. 
Ruby King—All-America, bred for size 
and uniformity. Dark green turning to 
bright deep red fruit. Thick flesh sweet 
and mild. 60 days. 
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Continued from Page 15 
PARSNIPS 
Must be planted as early as ground can 
be worked. Soil must be loose to a 
depth of 12’ and cannot be heavy. Space 
5” part. Cold weather turns starches into 
sugar and improves flavor. Roots are 
hardy: leave in ground over winter if 
desired. 
PEAS 
Plant variety Alaska as soon as ground 
can be dug. Plant wrinkled varieties 
(which have better flavor) when narcissus 
buds show color or when crocuses are in 
bloom. Peas are not satisfactory when 
weather turns hot. Tall varieties must be 
staked. Most home gardeners prefer 
dwarf varieties like Little Marvel. Peas 
want well-limed soil. Don’t forget, inocu- 
lation improves production. 
PEPPERS 
Need long growing season: start indoors 
8 weeks before plants are wanted. Set 
out after petals on apple blossoms have 
fallen. Set plants 15'’ x 24’ and feed 
liberally for bigger fruits. 
PUMPKINS 
Follow muskmelon culture, 
corn after last cultivation. 
or plant in 
RADISHES 
As a tule the first crop to mature: plant 
as early as soil cari be dug. Feed liber- 
ally for quick growth. Sow a 10 foot row 
every ten days until weather turns 
warm. Start planting again with the com- 
ing of cool weather in fall. The fall and 
winter types are sown in mid-summer to 
mature in fall for storage. 
N 
SPINACH 
Seed in fall (protect with straw) or in 
very early spring. Must mature before 
hot weather. 
Spinach (New Zealand) 
While this crop grows freely in hot 
weather, it will not germinate except 
when soil temperatures are below 70 
degrees. Hence it should be sown with 
the half-hardy crops — those that are 
planted when the narcissi bloom. Plant 
in soil with plenty of organic matter, 
spacing the plants about 3 feet by 3 
feet. Keep them cut back, since only the 
young growing tips are eaten and long, 
woody stems have little flavor. Many who 
have tried a mixture of half Swiss Chard 
and half New Zealand Spinach say that 
this is better than either vegetable alone. 
SQUASH 
Follow culture given for muskmelon for 
vine types. Grow bush types in rows, 
spaced 24" apart. Keep picked. Will bear 
all summer. 
TURNIPS 
Follow directions for radishes. 
can be cooked for greens. 
Thinnings 
TOMATOES 
There are two schools of tomato culture— 
those who stake and those who don't. 
Reasons for and against are as follows: 
FOR STAKING: While staked plants pro- 
duce fewer fruits per plant, they produce 
more tomatoes for a given area, So if 
room~is at a premium, it will pay to 
stake. Staked plants usually produce 
cleaner fruits and bear somewhat earlier. 
AGAINST: Staking calls for much extra 
labor in staking, tying and pruning. The 
total production per plant is higher in un- 
staked and unpruned plants. If you have 
plenty of room, the saving in labor makes 
the unstaked method the best. All com- 
mercial canning crops of tomatoes are 
grown in this way. 
If the ground under the vines is cov- 
ered with a mulch of clean straw, this 
will improve the quality of the fruits and 
will also keep weeds down and save 
moisture. 
When staking, set plants 18 apart in 
the row, in rows 3 feet apart. Use a 7 
foot stake, driven 1 foot into the ground. 
Tie plant to stake with soft twine or other 
plant tie. Habit of growth calls for a side 
shoot from the first point where a leaf 
joins the main stem, another side shoot 
from the second leaf joint, and a flower 
cluster from the third joint. This 2-1 pat- 
tern of growth is repeated up the entire 
stem. 
The staked plant is allowed 
from the tip, and as it grows, the 
stem is tied to the stake. As the side 
shoots appear, these are pinched out or 
rubbed off, leaving the flower clusters to 
produce fruits. When training tomatoes to 
stakes, be sure to leave all possible foliage 
to hide the fruits from direct sunshine; 
otherwise they will sunscald. 
to grow 
When grown without staking, the vines 
will sprawl on the ground. This means 
they will need more room, Three feet 
between plants and four feet between 
rows will not be too much ground to use 
if you can spare the room. 
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