Our present active propagating list is the result of testing over 200 varieties during 
a period of nearly 35 years, continually adding the newer varieties and dropping the older 
forms as fast as similar newer ones showed superiority. This has had the double purpose 
of steadily improving our propagating list and, in connection with our plant breeding, of 
having right on our grounds a collection of the world’s finest with which any of our own 
seedlings could be compared. Our constant rule has been not to name and introduce one 
of our own unless we honestly considered it either better than or different from the nearest 
variety previously introduced by anyone. 
There is more or less controversy about the relative merits of propagating lilacs on 
their own roots or by budding or grafting, usually on Privet. We do not care to enter into 
any argument about it as the fact that we propagate them entirely by budding is sufficient 
indication that we consider that the best plan. Whether budded or grafted it is very impor- 
tant that they be planted so that the union between root and top is approximately four 
inches below surface of soil. This almost invariably results in their making lilac roots. Any 
suckers with lilac leaves will be the same as the top so need not be removed unless they 
spread too far from the parent plant. 
It is frequently stated that lime should be added to the soil, but this is entirely un- 
necessary here in the West unless the soil is definitely acid. 
Under the conditions that prevail in most of California lilacs should not be watered 
after early August. This produces an artificial dormancy and gives them the long resting 
period that they need, but during their first season in the ground they should be watered 
until the rains start. 
Pruning is simple and done mainly to keep plants from getting too big or too 
crowded by cutting out after leaves have fallen a good proportion of needless side shoots. 
Remember however that flowers come on the large buds at or near ends of branches so 
enough of these should be left for satisfactory blooming . 
Cutting flowers does not harm the plants; in fact, all flower clusters left on bush 
should be removed as soon as they wither. This prevents their setting seed which is not only 
unsightly but takes too much strength from the plant. 
The following list includes and briefly describes all varieties now on our active 
propagating list whether available this season or not. It will quicky be noticed that many 
well known varieties are missing and the only reason for this is that they have been dis- 
carded in favor of others similar but in our opinion better. 
Prices are given after variety lists. 
VARIETIES ORIGINATED BY US 
and year of introduction 
Alice Eastwood 1942 The flowers are double with coloring on the order of Kath- 
erine Havemeyer, dark claret purple buds changing to bluish purple as flowers expand, 
and finally becoming mauve pink (H.C.C. 30/3). The long, slim, elegant bud spikes 
are borne well above the foliage and are suggestive of purple “‘cat-tails.’’ The clusters 
are beautifully formed, usually regularly four-sided, and frequently come paired. They 
are well filled with flowers but not crowded which is such a serious fault with so many 
doubles. Blooming time is about mid-season or slightly after. The plant is both vigor- 
ous and productive. Other interesting points are that the stamens are remarkably con- 
spicuous, bracts show among the flowers, fragrance is excellent and clusters ‘‘make up” 
beautifully when cut. Named, of course, in honor of the beloved dean of California 
botanists. Customers east of Rocky Mountains can procure this from Wayside Gardens, 
Mentor, Ohio, as we do not sell it in that area. 
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