in getting them properly planted. The plant should 
always be set higher than the surrounding ground, 
not only to drain, but to allow for shrinkage of the 
planting material. We find a great many Camellias 
down below the level of the surface, which is due 
solely to settling after the plants were set out. Such 
plants invariably sicken and die. 
FEEDING: 
Application of specially prepared Camellia 
fertilizer in March and June is suggested to keep 
plants in a vigorous condition. Camellias are not 
gross feeders and do not need heavy feeding. As 
long as the plant looks rich and green, there is no 
use to be concerned about it insofar as fertilizer 
goes. The following table will indicate the correct 
amounts: 
For Camellias 12-18 inches—% cup 
18-24 inches—% cup 
24-36 inches—1 cup 
3-4 feet —2 cups 
4-5 féet. =—5..cups 
6-8 feet —4 cups 
For potted plants and young grafted plants, 
use one-half the above amounts. 
The food should be applied evenly, not too 
close to the main stem of the plant, and watered in. 
Maintain a one-inch mulch of peat moss or leaf 
mould to protect the surface roots from extremes 
of weather, and avoid cultivating, as you will 
injure the surface feeding roots. Watering is very 
important. Remember, a plant in light soil will 
take more water than one in heavy soil, and a 
plant in the shade will require less water than one 
in semi-shade. Plants under trees require more 
water than those shaded by a building. Frequent 
syringing of the foilage to wash off grime and dust 
is very beneficial during the summer months, but 
avoid either wetting or spraying the foilage during 
the heat of the day, as sunburning will result. 
There can be no cut-and-dried rule for the water- 
ing of Camellias; they must be kept moist, but 
they will not stand an excess of water. Each 
garden will have a different water requirement, so 
you should check your own by digging down to a 
depth of several inches in the soil near your plant- 
ing bed to determine from season to season the 
amount and frequency of irrigation, and keep the 
soil moist, not sloppy wet. 
Watch winter watering, also, especially if 
ground is dry at blooming time, or during cold 
weather. All plants suffer less from freezing if 
the ground is wet. This applies especially to 
Camellias and azaleas. 
INSECTS: 
Watch plants for tea and Camellia scale. The 
tea scale is of a cottony white appearance on the 
under side of the leaves. ‘The Camellia scale is 
brown in color and also on the under side of the 
leaves. Both may be present at the same time. It 
is not difficult to get rid of them if a spray job 
is thoroughly done, but it must be thorough. We 
use and recommend the following spray: 
Y pint Super Destruxol 
mixed with 3 gallons water. 
8 large tablespoons Super Destruxol 
mixed with | gallon water. 
Avoid spraying when temperature is above 85 
degrees, or when there is danger of freezing. Spray, 
therefore, either in April or May and in September. 
GENERAL: 
Camellias are really no harder to grow than 
any other evergreen shrub, and once their require- 
ments are known, any gardener may be assured of 
success. ‘The plants are long-lived and enhance in 
value as they increase in size. It is well to bear in 
mind that the Camellia will in time need a fair 
amount of room; so try to allow at least four feet 
for development. Shallow-rooted annuals may be 
grown nearby, but do not mix in with a planting of 
heavy surface-rooting shrubs or trees such as the 
Privet or Ligustrums, as they will rob the slower- 
growing Camellias. Remember to keep the plants 
moist, but not wet; feed with acid fertilizer, and 
keep a peat moss or leaf mould mulch around the 
base. 
