




sasreith 4a S017 -9 es 


Coarve Grave/, 
materials must come from old, abandoned mill 
sites where the piles are from seven to ten years 
old. Pure leaf mould made from strictly decayed 
leaves is ideal, but needs the addition possibly of 
some sulphur and plant food. 
As a heavy soil often presents a drainage prob- 
lem, use a post-hole digger to further deepen the 
planting hole by another 18 inches, and fill this 
hole as well as the bottom of the larger hole with 
coarse gravel to aid drainage. The sketch shown 
will give a clear idea as to how this should be done. 
Pack the soil thoroughly as the hole is filled up. 
Don’t wait until it is filled and then attempt to do 
this tamping. If you are on high ground and plant- 
ing a number of Camellias, a drain tile may be 
put in. The comparative small cost will be a splen- 
did investment. Bear in mind that Camellias are 
valuable plants and no expense should be spared 
in getting them properly planted. The plant should 
always be set higher than the surrounding ground, 
not only to drain, but to allow for shrinkage of the 
planting material. We find a great many Camellias 
down below the level of the surface, which is due 
solely to settling after the plants were set out. Such 
plants invariably sicken and die. 
FEEDING: 
Application of specially prepared Camellia 
fertilizer in March and June is suggested to keep 
plants in a vigorous condition. Camellias are not 
gross feeders and do not need heavy feeding. As 
long as the plant looks rich and green, there is no 
use to be concerned about it insofar as fertilizer 
goes. The following table will indicate the correct 
amounts: 
For Camellias 12-18 inches—'%4 cup 
18-24 inches—'% cup 
24-36 inches—1 cup 
3-4 get =2 cups 
4-5 feet —3 cups 
6-8 feet —4 cups 
For potted plants and young grafted lant 
use one-half the above amounts. 
