
ie eS sh 
Well Established Young Plant Top Several Inches Removed Strong Breaks Resulting 
from Single Pinch 
PINCHING 
For a good number of years the reason for pinching was to regulate the number of stems on the 
plant. In recent years we have learned that in case of pompons or singles the pinching determines 
the type of spray formation. With standards, pinching will determine the type of bud formation, 
_whether it be a crown or terminal bud. 
Time Pinching 
The precision culture of chrysanthemums is all set-up around the ''Last Pinch". To grow a quality 
pompon you should receive the rooted cuttings sometime in June and then plant into the perma- 
nent location approximately three to four weeks before the date listed in our list of varieties under 
"Last Pinch". When growing shaded pomopns the “Last Pinch" should be 35 days before the shading 
date. Tall growing varieties such as Sea Gull, Rev. Bushnell should be pinched 28 days before shading. 
With standards under black cloth the majority of varieties should likewise be pinched 35 days before 
shading date. 
Time pinching standards will eliminate the formaiion of the crown bud and produce terminal buds 
which will in turn produce a much straighter flowering stem. 
All pinching should be finished by the early part of August as too late a pinching might encourage 
blindness and short stem length. We do feel that those people who grow their late flowering mums 
on ground beds should pinch about a week earlier than those on raised benches. 
Pruning 
Another important factor is to remove all shoots but 3 or 4 per plant, in a few instances only 2 
shoots are allowed to mature. Allow more shoots to develop on the outside rows than on the center 
rows of a bed. When fewer breaks are selected the planting distance should be closer. If you prefer 
to have a number of smaller sprays, with fewer blooms open at one time, follow the double pinch- 
ing procedure. 
Standards are usually pinched once to induce breaks so that they may be grown two per plant. The 
strongest breaks are selected and all others removed. It is well to pinch on the date suggested in the 
general list. Careful observation has shown us that neckiness with some varieties is eliminated by 
pinching on the respective dates. Singles and anemones are usually grown 3 to 4 stems per plant. 
Condition of Plant 
When pinching, remove only the soft growth, never cut into the woody stems as this will not pro- 
duce the type of breaks you desire. It is our experience that it is best not to pinch until the plant 
has become well established in its permanent location. In all cases it is better to have at least eight 
to ten inches of growth on the plants before pinching. (Photos above.) 
When double pinching, pinch the first time 30 days before the ‘Last Pinch’. This allows enough 
time to produce a growth long enough to pinch at the proper time. 
lf by chance you are delayed in planting and your plants will be too tall, it is advisable to pinch early 
enough before benching so that the breaks will be several inches long at time of planting. Never 
pinch hard plants at the same time they are planted into the bench, a heavy loss may result. Better 
wait until plants are established, then pinch. 
The last pinching dates given after each variety will help you grow that variety to excellency. Re- 
member that pinching is just one cultural factor and will only function when all other cultural points 
are carried out properly. 
