
TREE PEONIES 
Tree Peonies will grow in any good garden soil which is 
not too acid. They are hardy in the latitude of Boston, 
Buffalo and Lansing, and further north with winter pro- 
tection. They thrive best in positions sheltered from heavy 
winds, away from heavy tree roots, and prefer but do not 
require partial shade. Planting is done in the fall, with 
the graft line several inches below the ground level. Pro- 
tection should be given during the first winter. In regard 
to fertilizer, some phosphate, potash and lime can be used 
after the first year, but not too much nitrogen. 
The only serious trouble experienced in growing tree 
peonies is the occasional wilting and dying back of branch- 
es. This is caused by a brownish canker-like condition 
which generally starts at a crotch either above or below 
ground, spreads quickly when weather conditions are right, 
and kills the whole branch when girdling is complete. 
If this occurs, the diseased part should be pruned back to 
healthy wood (don’t leave a stub) and this cut painted 
with a thick paste of bordeaux powder and water. If a 
plant becomes badly infected so that the new shoots die 
back as they come up from the main stem underground, it 
should be dug up in the fall, scrubbed thoroughly and 
freed of all diseased condition by pruning and scraping the 
affected parts. Then paint all cuts with bordeaux paste 
and reset the plant in clean soil. Some Japanese authori- 
ties recommend that all plants be dug up and cleaned 
about every four years, and that three sprayings of Bor- 
deaux be applied each year, once before the flowers open, 
twice afterwards. 
Sometimes tree peonies will grow and flovrish for years 
without a bit of trouble. Sometimes not. We believe it is 
only fair to say so. But we also believe that American 
gardeners are skillful enough to grow them, and that each 
year more of us will share with the Orient the satisfaction 
of growing the “King of Flowers”. 
GRAFTED JAPANESE VARIETIES 
Adzuma-kagame 
Akashi-gata 
Akashi-jishi 
Akashi-nishiki 
Anya-no-hikari 
Arashiyama 
Asahi-no-hikari 
Asahi-tsuru 
Ayagino 
Chugai’s White 
Daioh 
Dantenmon 
Fujigoshi-ryo 
Gabisan 
Gekkyuden 
Genkimon 
Gessekai 
Haku-banryo 
Hakurakuten 
Haku-tsuru 
Hana-kisoi 
Hana-no-mikado 
Hatsu-hinode 
Hinode-sekai 
Hi-no-maru 
Hi-no-tsukasa 
Hi-odoshi 
Hi-ow 
Hira-no-yuki 
Horaisan 
Horakumon 
Howdai 
Howren 
Howzan 
Imasyojo 
Impumon 
Kagura-jishi 
Ikasumi-no-mori 
Ikenreimon 
Kkiku-botan 
Kimpukurin 
IKkinkaden 
IKkokamon 
Kokkoshi 
Kkoku-tsuru 
Mifukumon 
Momoyama 
Mt. Rokko 
Nagoya Castle 
Naniwa-nishiki 
Nissho 
Ohsakadzuki 
Okina-jishi 
Orihime 
Rimpow 
Saigyo-zakura 
Sakura-gasane 
Sakura-jishi 
Sakura-kagami 
Senshumon 
Shichifukujin 
Sh’gyoku 
Shin-abowkyo 
Shin-kagami 
Shin-kagura 
Shin-tenchi 
Shin-toyen 
Shojo-no-mai 
Shujakumon 
Suisho-haku 
Stumi-no-ichi 
Tama-fuyo 
Tama-sudare 
Teikwan 
Ubatama 
Ukare-jishi 
Yachiyo-jishi 
Yae-zakura 
Yaso-okina 
Yohjin 
Yomo-zakura 
These eighty odd varieties are growing in our nursery, 
selected from a list of one hundred and sixteen imported 
from Japan in 1938. Of this number we consider about 
fifty to be particularly noteworthy and worth propagating. 
Most of them are now available. 
WILLIAM GRATWICK 
PAVILION, NN. Y. 
