In bulk at money-saving prices. 
Special quotations to market gardeners. 
Prices subject to change without notice. 

BEANS, Continued 
Lima, Pole , 
Follow-same plan as for other pole 
beans but plant seed two weeks later. 
King of the Garden (fr)—Flat, smooth 
pods with four or five white, large flat 
beans. 88 days. 
BEANS, SHELL 
Navy—Small seed, almost round and 
white. Hardy, prolific. Most popular for 
baking. 95 days. 
Red Kidney—Pods 6-7 in. long. Flat 
large beans, pinkish red to mahogany 
in color. Rich flavor. 95 days. 
BEETS 
Deep, rich sandy loam produces finest 
beets. As soon as ground can be 
worked sow in drills 18” apart and 
press soil firmly over seed, When 
tops are 3” to 6” tall pull them and 
use for cooked greens. Continue this 
until roots stand 6” apart. Plant 
every 10 days or so. 
Crosby’s Egyptian (fr)—Widely grown 
for early beets. Flattened globe shaped 
roots with small tap root. Excellent 
quality, tender and sweet. 60 days. 
Detroit Dark Red (fr)—Standard of ex- 
cellence in table beets. Smooth, globular 
roots of deep ox-blood red—sweet and 
tender. 68 days. 
Early Wonder—Early variety. Semi- 
globular, tender, blood-red. 58 days. 
BEETS, STOCK 
(Mangel Wurzel) 
Sow seeds in early fall and spring 
in rows 214' to 3’ apart. Later thin to 
zo” apart. 
Mammoth Long Red—Very popular, 30 
to 50 tons per acre. Roots grow half 
above the ground. Light red, flesh white 
with rose tinge. 110 days. 
SWISS CHARD 
Requires about same treatment as 
beets. Cultivate frequently. Leaves 
may be gathered during summer and 
fall. New ones will grow quickly. 
Lucullus—Most popular chard. Upright 
in growth with yellowish-green curled, 
crumpled leaves. Thick, broad and light 
green stems. 50 to 60 days. 
Rhubarb Chard — Heavily crumpled 
leaves, dark green with a translucent 
crimson stalk. Easily grown, every- 
where. A different, tasty, delicious flavor 
—cook stalks and leaves together for 
a new taste thrill. 60 days. 
BROCCOLI 
Plant and cultivate like cabbage and 
cauliflower, 
Italian Green Sprouting (fr)—Plant bears 
a succession of sprouting heads about 
5 in. long, which, if kept cut will be 
replaced by others for 8 to 10 weeks. 
55 to 65 days. 
BRUSSELS SPROUTS 
Easy to grow wherever conditions are 
favorable for late cabbage, and re- 
quires same culture. As sprouts begin 
to form remove lower leaves so that 
all nourishment sent to lower stem 
will be forced into the sprouts, 
Long Island Improved—Compact, uni- 
form dwarf size plants. Cabbage-like 
sprouts 1%4-1¥% in. in diameter. One of 
the most dependable varieties. 90 days. 
CABBAGE 
Sow seeds in drills 6 apart across 
the bed, dropping the seed 5 to 6 
to the inch. Firm soil after covering, 
then water thoroughly. Keep beds 
moist but not soaking wet. Seeds 
germinate 3? to 8 days depending on 
temperature. Transplant to open 
ground when plants have made fourth 
pair of leaves, Set out as soon as frost 
danger is past. Use plenty of good 
commercial fertilizer. Cultivate fre- 
quently, every 5 or 6 days until cab-. 
bages are large. For winter storage, 
stand plants upright in cold cellar, 
with roots in sand, Slight freezing will 
not harm cabbage. 
Yellows Resistant Varieties 
Yellows Resistant Marion Market— 
Large, firm round heads, used for early 
kraut. A development from Copenhagen 
Market. 7-in., 4-lb. heads. 75 to 80 days. 
\/ Yellows Resistant Wisconsin Hollander 
—Late, excellent for winter storage and 
kraut Similar to Hollander and Danish 
Ball Head. 7 to 8-in., 7 to 9-lb. heads. 
100 to 110 days. 

Standard Early Varieties 
Copenhagen Market—Excellent, early 
short season type. Short stems, 6%-in., 
342 to 4-lb. heads. 65 to 70 days. 
Early Jersey Wakefield—Pointed heads, 
small and firm, Earliest pointed variety. 
Plants compact. 62 days. 
Goldren Acre—Extra early variety pro- 
ducing uniform well-balanced head. 
Weighs about 3-lbs, Excellent quality. 
65 days. 
Late or Winter Varieties 
Danish Ball Head or Hollander—A 
widely used late type. Deep, round, 
hard compact heads, 7 to 8-in., 6 to 
7-lb, Tender, crisp, fine for kraut. 100 
to 105 days. 
Premium Late Flat Dutch—Heavy yield 
variety. Very large heads, flat and 
solid. Leaves light gray-green. 100 
days. 
Red Varieties 
Mammoth Red Rock—Best of the red 
cabbages. Hard, round. purplish-red 
heads. Good keeper, 6 to 8-in., 7 to 8-lb. 
heads, 100 days. 
CHINESE CABBAGE 
An easily raised succession crop, Set 
out in rows which have been occu- 
pied by earlier vegetables. 
Chihili or Improved Pekin—Depend- 
able, early. Solid, tapered heads, 3 to 
4-in, thick. 18 to 20-in. long. 75 days. 
CARROTS 
Use sandy loam enriched by manure 
the previous year, if possible; but 
any good land if deeply and well 
worked will produce a good crop. Sow 
seed as early as ground can be worked. 
Sow seed Yo" to 1” deep in drills 16” 
to 18” apart. Press soil firmly above 
seed. When plants appear use culti- 
vator or wheel hoe and thin from 2” 
to 6” apart, according to type. Keep 
cultivated. 
Chantenay, Red Cored (fr)—Root has 
thick shoulder and tapers to slight 
stump root, 5-in. long. Red cored. 70 
days. 
Danvers Half Long—Sweet, tender roots, 
6 to 7-in. long tapering to a blunt 
point. Fine for storing. 75 days. 
Improved Imperator (fr)—Fine-grained, 
tender. . Rich orange, indistinct core. 
Roots smooth, tapered to semi-blunt. 77 
days. Continued on Page Io 

World’s greatest 
bargain is good 
garden seed! 
Where else so 
much for so little? 

OLD GARDENER SAYS.... 
Even though most folks have trouble grow- 
ing it, Chinese Cabbage is a crop worth 
considering. It’s a triple-treat vegetable. 
Eat it fresh as a salad, cook it as greens or 
use it raw as a relish. And it’s one salad 
crop you can store for winter use, to take 
the place of perishable lettuce. 
The trick in growing it is timing. Don’t 
seed it before July Ist. If you plant it too 
early, there is some mechanism inside the. 
plant that forces it to produce flowers and 
go to seed instead of heading up. But if 
you wait until after July Ist, it will form a 
firm, tight head instead. 
Another difficulty is that plant lice or 
aphids love this plant, as do certain chew- 
ing insects. Getting at these pests in the 
folded leaves is a hard problem. The trick 
is to go down the row with a light dust of 
rotenone (which, by the way, kills both 
sucking and chewing insects) . .. not 
enough to kill but just enough to force the 
pests out on top for air, Then go down 
the row again five minutes later with a 
heavy dust or spray and you'll get 99% 
of them. 

N 
