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FERTILIZING 
Underfertilization is one otf the chief causes of lawn 
failure. No amount of seed will thicken a turf unless 
the soil is amply supplied with the necessary plant foods. 
Nitrogen, phosphorous, and potash are the three main 
plant nutrients considered most essential for satisfactory 
plant growth. Others, of course, are necessary but they 
are ordinarily present in most soils in suficient amounts. 
Nitrogen is the element responsible for rich color and 
heavy, luxuriant foliage. Phosphorous aids in root devel- 
opment and growth, builds a sturdier plant, and is es’ 
pecially needed by young grass plants. Potash is a con- 
ditioner—a tonic, and helps the grass to resist disease. 
FAITH LAWN DIET has been designed as a com- 
plete and balanced food for the established lawn. — It is 
high in nitrogen, the most necessary and expensive of 
plant foods. Fifty percent of this nitrogen is organic— 
slow acting, so that the lawn receives the benefit of this 
element during the complete growing season. 
FAITH LAWN DIET is economical to use. Ten to 
fifteen pounds of FAITH LAWN DIET per thousand 
square feet of area applied twice a year, once in the 
Spring and once in the Fall, will supply sufficient plant 
food for the average lawn. 
MOWING 
Most lawns are clipped too short! Fine turf lawns, 
other than a pure bent grass lawn, should never be 
mowed closer than one and one-half to two inches. 
Closer mowing weakens the grass and invites weed and 
crab-grass infestation. 
New lawns and newly seeded areas should not be 
mowed until they are three to four inches high, and then 
merely the tops of the blades should be sheared off. 
Lawns should not be mowed closer than two inches the 
first season. In the Fall it is injurious to continue mowing 
the lawn until the grass has ceased to grow. An extra 
inch or two of grass before winter acts as a protective 
covering for the lawn. 
Be sure that the mower blades are sharp! A _ dull 
mower will uproot the grass. 
Normal clippings can be left on the lawn with profit. 
When the grass has been allowed to grow too high and 
the clippings are longer than one inch, they should be 
removed by means of a grass-catcher on the lawn mower. 
Excessive clippings will smother the grass and mat the 
lawn. 
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Weeds are a common source of annoyance to the 
average lawn builder. While there are many chemical 
preparations on the market which are effective against 
weed growth, the only lasting protection is a_ thick, 
healthy stand of turf into which weeds cannot penetrate. 
A turf of this kind can be yours if you will only follow 
the correct principles of mowing, watering, top-dressing, 
fertilizing, seeding, and liming. Avoid the practices that 
encourage the growth of weeds such as vigorous raking 
in the Spring, close mowing, and frequent sprinkling. 
Do not wait until too late in the Spring to work your 
lawn; top-dress and seed all thin and bare-spots in the 
turf. 
The more common weeds such as chickweed, dande- 
lion, ground ivy, and plantain are easily destroyed by 
2-4 D (2, 4 dichlorophenoxyacetic acid). 2-4 D is 
available in liquid and powder form, and since different 
manufacturers’ products are of different concentrations, 
it is urged that the manufacturers’ directions be closely 
adhered to. The usage of 2-4 D is not fool-proof. This 
chemical is harmful to trees, shrubbery, flowers, and most 
vegetables and it is apt to kill them if any contact what- 
soever is made. Expensive ornamentals have been de- 
stroyed by coming in contact with the wind-blown dust. 
2-4 D is also lethal to Bent Grass and White Clover. 
Most other weed killers which include sodium chlorate, 
sodium arsenite, iron sulphate, and ammonium sulfamate 
are harmful to all vegetation. They should be used with 
extreme caution. 
2-4 D preparations may be used on wide open lawns, 
but, for safety’s sake, hand pulling of weeds and seeding 
of the open places left by their removal should be re- 
sorted to at or near flower beds and ornamental bushes. 
CRAB GRASS 
Crab-grass begins growing in May or June and is 
killed by the first frost. It is by far the most serious 
weed pest in lawns. Chemicals now used for control 
include Sodium Arsenate and Phenyl Mercuric Acetate. 
The latter seems to show promise if it is applied soon 
after emergence in late May or early June. Any plants 
which develop by mid-June should be hand-pulled to 
prevent the plant from going to seed. 
Early Spring fertilization to encourage active growth 
of the turf grasses and the formation of a heavy turf not 
less than two inches high, will discourage the growth and 
spread of crab-grass. 
FERTILIZING MOWING 
WEEDS CRAB GRASS 

