Paymaster 
A NEW Spring Strawberry 
Several years ago we started out to develop a Strawberry that would be as 
good as Premier in yield, but with a hardier plant, more runners, and a berry 
that would not go to pieces when cooked. 
After crossing different varieties without getting what we were after, we 
crossed the Gem everbearer on the Premier. There were over 3,000 seedlings 
that grew from this cross, and from the start there was one that was outstand- 
ing. We selected this from the others and grew it in a fruiting row and found 
that it was just the Strawberry that we were after. It's our Paymaster. 
JUST WHAT WE WERE AFTER 
This new Strawberry, the Paymaster, proved to be just the berry we were 
after, a variety that would yield like Premier, but would be more resistant 
to diseases, produce more runner plants under average conditions and not 
cook to pieces like the Premier in canning, etc. We were very fortunate to 
get just the berry we were after. It’s our Paymaster. 
TWO OUTSTANDING PARENTS 
What better parents could there be back of Keith's Paymaster than the 
Premier and Germ? The female part of the cross was the Premier, the leading 
commercial spring Strawberry; known and liked by thousands of berry grow- 
ers. The other parent (male) was the Gem, a leader in the everbearing Straw- 
berry family. So you see this new Strawberry ‘'child’’ has outstanding parents 
which have passed on to it their outstanding characteristics, size, yields and 
attractiveness of the mother (Premier), and disease resisting, plant produc- 
tion, firmness and suitableness for cooking, of the father (the Gem everbearer.) 

PAYMASTER plants are hardy, resistant to ‘'Yellows’’ and more disease- 
free of leaf spot and red stele than Premier. 
PAYMASTER berries are large, firm, rich in flavor and color which hold up 
during cooking. They also hold their shape in cooking, do not! ’cook up” like 
Premier. Yields longer. 
Prices: Because of our small stock of Paymaster plants, we cannot allow 
more than 50 plants per customer. 12 plants $1.25; 25 for $2.35; 50 for $4.00. 


KEITH’S SUGGESTIONS FOR GROWING 
STRAWBERRIES 
SOIL. Any good soil that will grow a paying crop of Corn, Wheat, Oats, 
Potatoes will grow Strawberries, but the most ideal is a rich, moist, cool, 
sandy loam. It should be we!l drained, and not in a low frosty location. Clay 
or gravelly soils are also good for Strawberries but organic matter should be 
added by plowing under plenty of straw and the like. 
SOIL PREPARATION. Thoroughness is very essential. Plow the soil 8 to 10 
inches deep and do so as far in advance of planting as possible, thus allowing 
the soil time to settle well before planting. Harrow and disk frequently so the 
top layers become mellow yet firm. 
ENRICHING THE SOIL. Barnya-d manure is always considered best, but is 
not always available. If you have it, apply 15 to 20 wagon loads per acre 
before plowing, and disk well into the soil then plow under. Apply 5 to 7 
loads of fine, wel] rotted manure to the top after plowing, and disk and har- 
row this well into the top layers. On a smaller scale, use 4 to 5 bushels per 
sq. rod. Chicken manure may be used, but it is best to mix 1500 lbs. of it with 
500 lbs. of 16% acid phosphate and apply at the rate of 25 lbs. per sq. rod. 
In using COMMERCIAL FERTILIZERS apply 1000 to 2000 lbs. of a 4-16-4 fer- 
tilizer per acre. On smaller lots use 15 to 25 lbs. per sq. rod. Apply to the top 
soil and disk in like the manure. Do not place fertilizer in the hole in setting 
plants. Apply in a shallow trench along each side of the row, averaging two 
teaspoonfuls per plant, at least 2 inches from the plant's base. 
SETTING THE PLANTS. Set as early as possible in the spring. Fall (Oct.) 
planting may be practiced in those sections where the soil does not freeze over 
6 inches deep during the winter. Fall plantings should ke mulched. All this 
can be avoided by early spring planting. Space the plants 18 inches in rows 
spaced 32 to 4 feet apart (field culture), and 16 to 18 inches by 3 feet in gar- 
den culture (see page 21.) Set the plants so the crown is just even with the 
top of the soil surface and pack soil very firm about the roots. There should 
be no air space around the roots. 
CARE AFTER PLANTING. Keep the blossom clusters picked off spring ever- 
bearing varieties, but with the everbearers, allow those to remain that show 
up after 5 or 6 weeks after planiing. Keep the soil well stirred around the 
plants. If weather is dry and hot, water alongside the row in a trench. Re- 
fill same after water has soaked away. Train the runners in the row, spacing 
them 3 to 4 inches apart. No piling upon each other. For best garden results, 
follow suggestions on page 17. 
WINTER MULCH should be placed on after the soil freezes 2 to 3 inches 
deep. Use straw or other coarse material that will not pack down and 
smother the plants. Apply 3 to 4 inches thick and take part of it off in the 
spring when the plants show growth. Place it between the rows for mulch to 
keep the berries from becoming sandy during rains. 
[26] 
SUGGESTIONS FOR GRAPE CULTURE 
Grapes may be grown in any well-drained soil that is fertile enough to 
produce profitable field crops, or any good garden soil. They may also be 
grown along a line or back yard fence, training the vines on the fence or wire, 
pruning out the old vines as suggested for field culture mentioned herein. Plow 
the soil in the early spring, or the fall before. Plant in spring, disk and har- 
row soil well before planting. 
Space the rows 9 feet apart and set the plants 12 feet apart in the row. 
For light soils or gardens set 8 by 10. Dig the hole at least a foot deep and 
large enough to prevent cramping or crowding roots. Pack the soil firm about 
the roots, using the top soil. 
Train all vines the first year to a stake. The second year set posts between 
every other plant (2 plants per post), staple wire to post about hip high and 
tie one vine to the wire. Use the best one that grew the year before. The third 
year add another wire, 16 inches above the first, and train one vine each way 
on each wire. Follow this system each year using the vines (canes) that grew 
the year (summer) before for the ‘‘arms”’, one per wire, 4 in all. For a spray 
schedule, consult your county agricultural agent. 
How to Grow Black Raspberries 
Set plants in spring 32 feet apart in rows spaced 5 feet (garden) to 7 feet 
(field) apart. Keep ground well cultivated or mulched (4 to 6 inches of straw, 
sawdust, etc.) to keep down weeds and grass. Cut out old canes as soon as 
they are through fruiting, take from garden and burn. Nip ends off new green 
shoots in spring when they are 18 inches high, causing them to branch. This 
prevents long '’weepy”’ canes. In spring trim branches on canes back to 8 to 
10 inches, and long '' weepy”’ canes back ta 3% feet. 
Planting Instructions for Red Raspberries 
Set Latham plants 2¥2 feet (garden), 3 feet (field), in the row and space the 
rows 5 feet (garden), 6 feet (field) apart. The bushes may be kept in the “hill” 
by cutting off all the new shoots that come up between the plants you set, or 
you may have a “hedge row” by allowing the young shoets that come up in 
the row between the set plants to grow and develop into individual bushes. 
After fruiting, cut out all the old canes that fruited, leaving the young shoots 
that come up from the base of the plant to remain and make fruiting wood 
(the top) for the following year. 
