
Ludwig Photos 
Two of Ludwig's Named Varieties in the Red division, on the left the splendid 
exhibition type, “Red Guard,” and on the right a less expensive variety, “Satan,” 
which has excellent quality and possibilities. Red Guard is one of the world’s 
leading deep red Amaryllis, and with Scarlet Leader tops the Ludwig list in its 
color range. 
The only pests and troubles of Amaryllis bulbs are mealy bug, scale, thrips and 
red spider, along with too acid soil conditions, too wet soil conditions, poor drainage, 
too much sun, too little sun, frost or freezing temperatures, (any temperature below 
50 is dangerous, as in Florida the ground temperature remains above 50 all winter). 
Also in Florida we have the huge lubber grasshopper and the convict caterpillar. 
These last two are best picked off by hand during the daytime. Mealybug, scale, 
thrips and red spider can be controlled by such sprays as Red Arrow and Florida 
Volck, or just by wiping the leaves of the bulb occasionally with a damp cloth. 
The so-called “red rust” of Amaryllis is believed to be merely an after-affect of some 
injury, representing the discoloration caused by oxidation of damaged tissues of the 
bulb or leaves, especially after cold or insect damage, or “wet feet,” due to poor 
drainage or sour soil conditions. Amaryllis will take a lot of “sweetness” in the soil, 
doing well in soils well over neutral. 
Hydridizing Amaryllis 
Hybridizing Amaryllis is an easy matter, simply the transferring of pollen 
from the anthers of one flower to the pistil of another flower. It is a fascinating 
plant hobby, and it is said of the late Dr. T. L. Mead who originated the Mead strain, 
“that he could not see two flowers in bloom at the same time without wanting to 
cross them!” After the transfer, when the plants are in full bloom, the flower which 
has been fertilized will fade in a day or so, and soon a pod of seed will form, 
ripening in about six weeks, depending on the weather. Occasionally among certain 
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